Watch Of The Week: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription

Watch Of The Week: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription

Haute Time
By Haute Time January 27, 2025

The revival of Daniel Roth continues with the unveiling of the Extra Plat Souscription, a watch that embodies the brand’s storied history and dedication to horological excellence. This ultra-thin dress watch, limited to just 20 pieces, draws inspiration from the original Extra Plat, introduced in 1990, and pays tribute to the vision of its founder, Mr. Daniel Roth.

Developed and produced by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, this timepiece redefines simplicity and sophistication while preserving the spirit of the original design.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Daniel Roth

The Extra Plat Souscription showcases the elegance of a classic two-hand dress watch, a concept long favored by Mr. Roth. His fascination with the ultra-thin form dates back to the 1980s, and the launch of the first Extra Plat was a natural progression of his artistic philosophy.

Today, this new iteration blends traditional aesthetics with modern mechanics, thanks to the specially developed DR002 movement. Faithful to the brand’s heritage, the watch maintains the proportions and visual harmony of its predecessor while incorporating innovative advancements that elevate its performance and appeal.

The 18k yellow gold case, with its iconic double ellipse form, epitomizes the tasteful design principles of the original models. Measuring 35.5mm wide and 38.6mm lengthwise, the case has been refined for a thinner profile, standing at just 7.70mm.

This svelte design is achieved through the ultra-thin DR002 movement, which measures only 3.1mm in thickness. The case also features a perfectly centered godron for balance, with gently rounded and downward-arched lugs that enhance both comfort and visual coherence. Each lug is meticulously crafted as a separate component and soldered by hand to the case middle, ensuring the highest level of craftsmanship and detail.

The watch’s dial, crafted entirely from 18k yellow gold, is a masterpiece of artisanal guilloché work. It features a Clou de Paris pattern, hand-engraved using antique restored machines at La Fabrique du Temps’s guilloché workshop.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Daniel Roth

This intricate process, requiring 10 hours of precise work by a single artisan, highlights the Maison’s dedication to time-honored techniques. The dial is further enhanced by a filet sauté border, engraved using equipment dating back to 1850, and an applied chapter ring, also made of solid yellow gold.

The rich blue color used for the Roman numerals and the serial number echoes the heat-blued steel hands, creating a cohesive and elegant aesthetic. At the heart of the Extra Plat Souscription is the DR002 caliber, a manual-winding movement exclusively developed for Daniel Roth. Its form follows the double ellipse shape of the case, demonstrating the Maison’s commitment to cohesive design.

Despite its unconventional shape, the movement adheres to the highest standards of Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The bridges feature rounded, polished bevels, or anglage, with sharp corners that reflect exceptional artisanal finishing. This level of detail showcases the Maison’s dedication to preserving traditional craftsmanship while embracing modern innovations.

The DR002 movement incorporates a free-sprung balance wheel operating at a frequency of 4Hz. Equipped with variable inertia weights, the balance ensures superior precision and stability over time. A single large mainspring provides a 65-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to function seamlessly through a weekend without winding.

Beyond its technical sophistication, the movement delivers a tactile experience that enhances the wearer’s connection to the watch. The steel winding click, entirely satinated, offers a precise and satisfying feel, underscoring the Maison’s attention to both aesthetics and functionality.

True to the discretion of the original Extra Plat, the DR002 movement is hidden beneath a solid 18k yellow gold case back. This design choice emphasizes the watch’s understated elegance, allowing the focus to remain on its outward beauty and craftsmanship.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Daniel Roth

The watch is paired with a calfskin leather strap, designed for comfort and durability. With a 20mm lug width, the strap complements the overall proportions of the watch, completing its refined profile. The Extra Plat Souscription is more than a watch; it is a testament to the legacy of Mr. Daniel Roth and the enduring values of the brand he founded.

Limited to just 20 pieces, this timepiece offers collectors a rare opportunity to own a piece of horological history that exemplifies the artistry and vision of Daniel Roth.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Daniel Roth

It will be followed by an Extra Plat model that joins the brand’s permanent collection, ensuring that the legacy of its founder lives on for generations to come. This exceptional timepiece represents a bridge between the past and the future, honoring the values of traditional watchmaking while setting a new standard for the brand’s future endeavors.