The New Daniel Roth Rose Gold Tourbillon Starts Geneva Watch Days On The “Right Foot”

As Jean Arnault, the Watch Director at Louis Vuitton, boldly put it this morning on Instagram: the new Daniel Roth Rose Gold Tourbillon stole the show at this year’s Geneva Watch Days. Following last year’s limited edition Tourbillon Souscription in yellow gold, the latest model makes its debut in 5N rose gold, complete with a new guillochage en ligne dial. This release celebrates the brand’s deep heritage and marks a significant evolution in design and craftsmanship, showcasing Daniel Roth’s dedication to tradition and innovation.

Inspired by the original Tourbillon C187—designed by Daniel Roth himself and noted as the first wristwatch to prominently feature a large tourbillon on the dial—the Tourbillon Rose Gold is a modern homage to the classics. This timepiece is dressed in the much-celebrated “pink on pink” palette, combining a 5N rose gold case with a matching 5N rose gold guilloché dial.

“Rose gold is a rich, vivid, and striking precious metal that is modern in appearance yet widely used in classical watchmaking,” explains Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of DANIEL ROTH. “It is a perfect evolution from the vintage feel of the yellow gold used for the Tourbillon Souscription.”

Hegi continues, “The complementary nature of the rose gold case paired with a rose gold dial is an example of the distinctive, elegant aesthetic that defines DANIEL ROTH. Moreover, the ‘pink on pink’ combination evokes many significant historical timepieces, both wrist and pocket watches, that are both desirable and beautiful.”

The Tourbillon Rose Gold is housed within a double-ellipse case, a hallmark of the Daniel Roth brand since its inception in 1988. This unique shape—a blend of a circle and a square—was originally conceived to highlight the visible tourbillon positioned at 6 o’clock. Decades later, this case design remains an iconic symbol of modern haute horlogerie, balancing classical elegance with contemporary aesthetics.

In the new Tourbillon Rose Gold, the double-ellipse case has been subtly refined to enhance its proportions, a change made possible by the slim profile of the DR001 caliber. The redesigned lugs, now gracefully curved, follow the rounded lines of the case while offering ergonomic comfort.

Complementing the case is the rose gold dial, which is not merely color-coordinated but also crafted from the same 5N rose gold alloy. This dial is adorned with applied chapters and scales in sterling silver, and glossy black lacquer markings accentuate its vivid pink hue. The black-coated stainless-steel hands provide a stark contrast, enhancing readability and adding to the dial’s visual appeal.

The guilloche en ligne pattern—a series of parallel, vertical lines—decorates the dial, paying homage to the guilloché work found in the original C187 models. This intricate engraving is executed by hand in collaboration with Kari Voutilainen’s renowned engine-turning atelier. Each dial requires meticulous attention, with any minor error necessitating a complete restart.

The heart of the Tourbillon Rose Gold is the DR001 caliber, a movement developed entirely in-house by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, who are also the founders of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Unlike its predecessor in the Tourbillon Souscription, where the movement was concealed behind a solid case back, the DR001 is now showcased under a sapphire crystal caseback, allowing the intricate details of its traditional Swiss watchmaking craftsmanship to be fully appreciated.

“Having known Daniel for many years before the revival of DANIEL ROTH, we understood his philosophy, with its emphasis on tradition, quality, and details, so we instinctively knew the DR001 had to be peerless in every way,” said Navas and Barbasini. “Now we are especially proud and happy that the movement can be fully admired in all its glory through the sapphire back.”

The DR001 movement is a masterpiece of traditional horology. Its bridges are finished with Côtes de Genève, with vertical stripes that mirror the linear guilloché on the dial. The bridges are further refined with anglage, featuring rounded, beveled edges that are polished to a mirror-like finish. This meticulous attention to detail extends to the tourbillon bridge and carriage, crafted from steel and hand-polished to a mirror finish, and even the tiny screws, which are polished and chamfered with the utmost precision.

As a continuation of the reborn Daniel Roth legacy, the Tourbillon Rose Gold will be individually numbered, starting from “21” to follow the Tourbillon Souscription that ranges from “01” to “20.” Due to the intricate craftsmanship required for each watch, production is limited to no more than 50 pieces per year, ensuring exclusivity and maintaining the high level of artisanal quality that defines the brand.