No Rest for the Wrist: Big News and Bold Debuts From Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Bremont, Hublot and Ressence

After Geneva Watch Days wrapped up last Sunday, you might expect the watch world to pause and catch its breath—but no. This week has been just as frenetic, packed with launches that have collectors buzzing.

Adding fuel to the fire are unconfirmed (but widely whispered) rumors that Patek Philippe will raise prices by 15% come September 15^th. What’s certain, however, is that many brands rushed shipments into the United States ahead of President Trump’s newly imposed 39% tariffs on Swiss watches.

I won’t name names, but the big players have already raised prices quietly. And if tariffs are still in place once US inventories run dry, another round of hikes looks inevitable. The stakes couldn’t be higher: with China in recession, the US has overtaken it as the world’s largest market for luxury watches. Analysts once argued for price parity across regions, but tariffs have blown that model apart. America’s sheer revenue weight means brands can no longer offset the difference elsewhere.

Still, it hasn’t been all doom and gloom. Amid the economic drama, the spotlight rightly falls on horological artistry, like Grand Seiko’s gorgeous SLGC006 and SLGW007, alongside several other landmark debuts that underscore just how alive and ambitious this industry remains.

Six New Audemars Piguet Timepieces

Audemars Piguet is celebrating its 150th anniversary with six novelties, each limited to 150 pieces. From patented complications to painstaking métiers d’art techniques, the brand is clearly betting on the Code 11.59 as its next icon.

The collection—recognizable by its curved sapphire case that resists photography but rewards the eye in person—has gained three new flying tourbillon models with striking stone dials. First launched in March 2025, the 38mm Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon now returns in ruby root with a white gold case, sodalite with pink gold, and malachite with yellow gold.

Alongside them, Audemars Piguet has unveiled three perpetual calendars in the same 38mm case size. While past Royal Oak perpetual calendars were usually powered by the caliber 2120, the new Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar runs on the caliber 7138, and the caliber 7136 drives the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars. These are enhanced evolutions of the 7121 that can be fully adjusted via the crown, dispensing with peripheral pushers. Shrinking such a complication from the traditional 41mm to 38mm highlights AP’s mastery of miniaturization.

The line-up includes an 18k pink gold Code 11.59 Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar with a handcrafted green guilloché dial by artisan Yann Von Kaenel, as well as two new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars: one in stainless steel with a light blue Grande Tapisserie dial, the other in pink gold with beige Grande Tapisserie dial. Both pay homage to the perpetual calendars of the 1990s, notably omit the day-of-the-week display, and sport 150th anniversary inscriptions on their casebacks.

The lingering question: Will 38mm succeed 39mm as the in-vogue case size?

Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555

Breguet continues its 250th-anniversary celebration with the 43.9mm Marine Hora Mundi 5555, a limited edition of just 50 pieces that showcases a meticulously crafted and truly unique world-travel-themed dial. The gold base dial features a gradient from sky blue at its center to navy at the periphery, overlaid with hand-guilloché meridians and parallels that evoke the illusion of a three-dimensional globe.

Above this is a translucent sapphire disc bearing three layers of miniature enamel artistry. On the reverse side of the crystal, the continents are painted in Grand Feu enamel and fired. On the front side, clouds and sky motifs are enamel-painted and fired a second time. Finally, tiny dots of phosphorescent enamel, which are unique to Breguet, are applied to mark cities, glowing subtly in the dark and lending each dial an element of nocturnal magic. You can even pick a city that you want Breguet artisans to highlight on your personalized timepiece.

This intricate artistry is framed by applied blued gold Roman numerals, 18k gold Breguet hands and a gold sun.

Mechanically, the Marine Hora Mundi 5555 is powered by Breguet’s in-house caliber 77F1, which comprises an instant-jump dual time switching, a jumping date, and a synchronized day/night indicator.

Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey

Founded in 2002 by brothers Giles and Nick English, Bremont takes its name from Antoine Bremont, a French farmer who once sheltered them after a plane crash on his property.

The brothers have just unveiled the Bremont Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey, the latest addition to their long-running collaboration with ejection-seat manufacturer Martin-Baker. The “Meteor” moniker nods both to the collection itself and to the classic jet fighter that Martin-Baker still uses for testing.

This stealthy new rendition carries striking aviation cues: red accents referencing the “danger” triangle, a lollipop seconds hand, and a counterweight shaped like an ejection-seat pull handle. Housed in a 42mm Grade 2 titanium case, the dial mimics meteorite—not with actual space rock, but with brass stamped using a 3D scan of a meteorite’s surface.

Functionality is equally considered. At 2 o’clock, a knurled crown sets and winds the anti-magnetic Bremont caliber BB14-AH, which is based on a La Joux-Perret movement. Its symmetrical counterpart at 4 o’clock controls the bi-directional inner bezel, which has been re-engineered for smoother operation and greater ease of use.

Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph UEFA Champions League Titanium

Limited to just 100 pieces, the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph UEFA Champions League Titanium is a true-blue dream for Champions League fans. The 42mm grade-5 titanium case combines satin-brushed and polished surfaces, anchored by Hublot’s signature H-screws on the bezel.

Set against a rich gradient-blue dial, the UEFA Champions League Starball logo is applied to the small-seconds subdial at 3 o’clock, while a discreet date window at 6 o’clock preserves the clean geometry typical of the Classic Fusion line.

The sapphire caseback carries the Starball emblem too, beneath which beats the HUB1153 self-winding chronograph caliber, offering approximately 48 hours of power reserve. Its black rubber strap, which is lined with blue calfskin leather, features the Champions League motif.

“At Hublot, we celebrate the joy of shared moments and the thrill of chasing greatness,” remarked Hublot CEO Julien Tornare of this commemorative timepiece. “That’s what drives us. Because we don’t just measure time, we celebrate it!”

The Classic Fusion Chronograph UEFA Champions League Titanium is available at Hublot boutiques worldwide and on Hublot.com, and arrives in a custom wooden case together with an official miniature UEFA Champions League trophy replica.

Ressence Type 9 ARM ‘Scattering Sun’

Renowned for its crownless, patented, and award-winning Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS), Ressence has just unveiled the 39mm Type 9 ARM “Scattering Sun”, created in collaboration with men’s tailoring house The Armoury.

The watch takes its name from a newly introduced polished titanium fluted bezel, which catches the light with a shimmering effect while also serving as the functional minute track. Weighing just 39 grams, the case houses a sandblasted titanium dial finished in a warm salmon-tone PVD, paired with a chocolate suede strap accented by exposed stitching.

“I admired Ressence for years—the clarity of the display, the organic form, the sense of movement,” says The Armoury co-founder Mark Cho. “But coming from tailoring, I wanted a watch that could live with a suit. Something smaller, more restrained, with details that echo fine clothing. Our role was to bring that sensibility: scale, warmth, texture, subtle elegance. (Resssence Founder Benoît Mintiens) refined those ideas into a complete design.”

Limited to just 20 pieces, the Type 9 ARM “Scattering Sun” will be available exclusively through The Armoury’s boutiques in Hong Kong and New York, as well as its online store.