Roger Dubuis is a brand that loves a challenge, wither it be technical or aesthetically of nature. For the new Excalibur Superbia, the brand joined forces with internationally renowned Japanese artist and architect Kaz Shirane and created a gemstone setting unlike any seen before. Six hundred diamonds and blue sapphires, with a total of 11 carats, decorate the case. However, they do not feature a baguette or brilliant-cut, but a tetrahedron cut instead. This triangular form is incredibly complex to cut and represents the diamond's basic atomic building blocks' shape.

Designing and developing new watches is not always as easy as it looks. They need to stay true to the DNA of the brand, yet at the same time also tantalize the senses of existing clients, and preferably some new ones as well. The DNA of Ulysse Nardin has always been very expressive, which has resulted in an instantly recognizable style. Their watches often take us in the uncharted territory of design, presenting us with models beyond our imagination, yet that feels like such an organic expansion of the existing collection. This is also the case with the Blast, the brands' latest creation that they just launched during the Geneva Watch Days.

2020 marks the return of the Pasha de Cartier, which also happens to celebrate its 35th birthday. The watch was initially launched in 1985 and one of the great successes of the brand. It was created by Gerald Genta, who cleverly combined the Vendome-lugs, designed and patented by Louis Cartier in 1934, with a round case and a prominent canteen-crown. It resulted in a very expressive watch that today hasn't lost any of its appeal.

Technically challenging and aesthetically daring, Parmigiani has ever since it was founded in 1996, shown a passion for combining both. This is especially true for the new Tonda 1950 Double Rainbow Flying Tourbillon. The watch is powered by caliber PF517, a movement that not only impresses with its complications but also with its finish. It has a height of 3.4mm, which is very thin, considering that it is not only equipped with a flying tourbillon but also features automatic winding. Creating such a movement in-house is something that Parmigiani only achieve because it is a fully vertically integrated manufacture.

While a tourbillon is, in general, a complication that will put most watch connoisseurs in awe, there is quite a difference among them. The most traditional ones feature a bridge on both sides, in between which they do their mesmerizing dance. A flying tourbillon lacks the front bridge, which allows you to see more of the intricate parts that make a tourbillon work. As the tourbillon is such a popular complication, many brands have made it a focal point for their technical creativity, which has resulted in watches that truly take your breath away.

The watch collection of Louis Vuitton has always been carefully curated to ensure that it truly represents the DNA of the brand. This has always been a mix of traditional craftsmanship combined with forward-thinking design. Louis Vuitton started this tradition with its very first watch-collection, back in the 1980's, which was designed by the famous Italian architect Gae Aulenti. She not only created watches on occasion but was also responsible for transforming Musée d'Orsay in Paris from a train station into one of the most renowned art museums in the world.

Roger Dubuis has always been a unique brand ever since it was founded in 1995 by the master-watchmaker with the same name. From the beginning, the design was just as important as the refined movements that powered these refined watches. In only four short years the brand became a true manufacture, producing in-house movements of excellent quality that were even awarded the prestigious Geneva Seal.

Doing justice to its name, the Legacy Machine (LM) FlyingT was off to a flying start, winning the award of 'Ladies Complication Watch' at the prestigious GPHG last year. An incredible accomplishment, especially when you take into consideration that this is the very first time that MB&F tried its hand on a ladies' watch. No wonder that the brand is continuing its path in this direction by launching two new models within the LM FlyingT collection.

Some of the most iconic watches have no equal, and this is most certainly the case with the Astronomia by Jacob & Co. It was launched in 2014, but very quickly became one of the signature models of the brand. This is not surprising, as it proves to be the perfect canvas for the brand to let loose their boundless creativity. As a result, many different versions of the Astronomia have been launched in the years since its introduction, and Jacob & Co doesn't show any signs of slowing down.

In 2016 TAG Heuer took the world by surprise with a brand new watch in the Carrera collection. Christened Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T, this watch combined a chronograph with a flying tourbillon. The goal of TAG Heuer was to make this watch a gateway for enthusiasts who wanted a more complicated watch, as the brand gave it a very competitive price tag.

Carbon has become an increasingly popular material for use in watchmaking these days but no other brand has taken this as far as Roger Dubuis. With the Excalibur Spider Carbon3, they present a watch which is not only equipped with a case and bracelet made from this material but incorporated it in the movement as well.

With its double-stepped bezel is Blancpain's Villeret collection not only instantly recognizable but also a true classic. Its details are subtle, but because of that, all the more powerful. Such a case also forms the perfect framework for the Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Retrograde, which takes the purity of the Villeret-design to the next level with a tantalizing combination complications.

Over the years Bovet has made quite a name for itself by creating extraordinary, and often very complicated, movements and wrap them in a very strong design that can only be mistaken for one of this brand. This has resulted in a very clear signature style and as a result, a strong DNA. However, as much as Bovet doesn't like to walk within the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, they also don't get too comfortable with their designs. Instead of repeating the same thing over and over again, also in here, they like to experiment a bit, and of this is the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter One a perfect example.

They are unfortunately still the exception on the rule; ladies watches that feature highly complex movements that were created especially for these watches. Roger Dubuis is one of the few that forms the exception on this rule as with the Excalibur Shooting Star they present a watch that impresses both in technical execution as well as feminine design.

With SIHH only a short week away some trends can already be established from the pre-releases of the brands participating. One of them is the continuation of a phenomenon that we have seen develop over the last few years; the rise of watches with a blue dial. In fact, we are getting to the point that we can hardly call it a trend anymore, but more the new normal as blue seems to be here to stay in full force. These blue dial beauties will hit the boutiques in 2019!

There is today not a shortage of tourbillons. Nearly every high-end brand has at least one, but most of the time multiple, in their collection to choose from. To stand out, you need to have a unique proposition for your clients. It might be a surprise, but that is exactly what this classic looking Ulysse Nardin has to offer!