Max Büsser Discusses the New HM12 ‘The Guardian’ and Reveals His Plans for MB&F

For as long as I’ve known the inimitable Maximilian Büsser, he has never been one to rein in either his imagination or his ambitions. Buoyed by an almost uncanny self-belief despite his admissions of self-doubt, the founder of MB&F helped a new era of unapologetic avant-gardism pervade watch collecting in the late 2000s, alongside luminaries like Martin Frei, Felix Baumgartner and, of course, all the incredibly talented ‘friends’ of MB&F.

It is this same irrepressible drive that gave rise to the new MB&F HM12 ‘The Guardian’. For those old enough to remember Transformers: Headmasters, this remarkable wristwatch does exactly that and more: it transforms into the head of an intricately engineered and hand-finished robot.

Robots in Disguise

I must say that MB&F should sell movie tickets for the captivating videos it created to promote the HM12 ‘The Guardian’. The blue, green and purple versions of the HM12 are strictly limited to 12 pieces each—even though a new movement was specially developed for this CHF280,000 timepiece, no more HM12s will be produced after this short run.

Jumping hour and trailing minute discs make up the robot’s eyes, which can be covered to different degrees by its face shield (controlled by the crown on the left) to produce different expressions.

It has a flying tourbillon for a brain and the signature MB&F “battle axe” micro-rotor for a mouth, the latter of which can be admired from both dial side and the caseback.

Flip the watch over to admire the unassailable engine turning executed by Kari Voutilainen’s Broadbeck Guillochage workshop.

With the addition of thoughtful features like articulating upper lugs and a sapphire window at the 12 o’clock position, its grade 5 titanium case comprises a total of 84 components. It measures 43.6mm from left to right, and when released from its strap, the strap can be stored in a hidden drawer at the sculpture’s base.

The 38.2cm-tall robot body is a highly functional mount for the watch, and comprises another 755 components. Its sternum has a thermometer with both Imperial and metric units, its left arm has a UV torch for activating its lume, and its shield holds a loupe.

Max elaborated on what made this endeavor extra special, in our tête-à-tête. He also divulged what’s on the horizon for MB&F, which includes an impending M.A.D.3.

Haute Time: Congratulations on a riveting creation. For you, does the HM12 ‘The Guardian’ feel different from previous kinetic artworks by MB&F?

Maximilian Büsser: The HM12 was initially created to celebrate our 20^th anniversary, but due to its complexity, ended up shepherding MB&F into our third decade.

It is for sure a three-dimensional kinetic art piece based on watchmaking—the fundamental on which MB&F was built twenty years ago. It is interactive and playful, and it is an incredibly complex piece of engineering doubled up with an unbelievable piece of hand-finished artisanship. All those attributes are what have made up MB&F Horological Machines since day one.

What makes it different is that it is the sum of all our past endeavors and more. The Guardian could be considered as the “best of” album of the last twenty years, but on steroids! It is therefore also the guardian of our values.

HT: What a poetic way to sum up the HM series. Mr Maximilian Maertens has been more and more involved in the creation of Horological Machines ever since he joined MB&F in 2017. Which aspects of Horological Machine creation does he oversee now?

MB: This is very much Maximilian Maertens’ project. I only had the idea of “wouldn’t it be cool if we created a robot whose head was a watch you can detach and wear on your wrist?” He took it from there and not only designed the piece over multiple different iterations, but over virtually five years, and accompanied it, with the rest of the engineers and artisans, to life.

HM: It’s so reminiscent of cartoons like Gundam and Transformers, which had a huge impact on guys who are now middle-aged watch collectors. Have these clients shared with you why MB&F’s sculptures resonate with so many men who are boys at heart?

MB: MB&F is our autobiography. I have never considered this company as a business. It is a life decision from day one. It is a journey which will allows us to look back on any given day and feel pride. Pride that we did what we believe in. We did the best we could without ever transgressing our values.

No major brand would ever create what we do, because there is no market for it, let alone the image risk. We are horological base-jumpers—adrenaline junkies—and I believe that is what our tribe resonates with.

When I launched Horological Machine No.1 in 2007, I did not dare tell the world that the design of our automatic rotor system was inspired by Grendizer’s battle axe. I had integrated that feature because Grendizer was my childhood hero, but thought it would not be wise to mention that for a US$160,000 piece of watchmaking. Until one day, I actually had the courage to tell a client who asked me about its inspiration. His reaction changed my perception entirely. Instead of looking at me with distaste, he erupted in massive laughter saying, “I looove Grendizer!” That day, I realized that all over the world, adults have had, in one way or another, more or less, the same childhood heroes or experiences which bind us in an invisible way.

HT: Speaking of dreams coming true, when we spoke at IAMWATCH 2024, you had just announced Chanel’s acquisition of 25% of MB&F, off the back of a record-breaking 2023 where your revenue tripled. Now that the dust has settled, how are things tracking? Has anything changed, and has the Chanel partnership benefited MB&F in any unexpected ways?

MB: From 2023 till now, we have stayed our course of virtually no growth, even though demand by far outweighs our production. We were very clear with Chanel that, even though we would be increasing the amount of creativity and risk-taking, they should not expect any more growth.

Look at the number of creations we have launched since IAMWATCH 2024. It is pretty astounding. Creating is what makes us happy.

Chanel have been exemplary partners—they are incredibly discreet and, at the same time, always there to help if we ever ask for something. We try to keep the requests to a bare minimum, but they always come through.

HT: On that topic of creativity and risk-taking, what else do you wish to achieve with MB&F’s kinetic art, sculptures and clocks?

MB: Base-jumpers are always looking for a more spectacular cliff to jump off.

HT: Then, might you be able to give us a hint of what MB&F has planned for the rest of 2026?

MB: 2026 is truly a “back to the roots” year, with HM12, the first new Horological Machine in the last three years, but also at the end of this year, with the rebirth of one of our former creations. And in September, M.A.D.3—a totally new M.A.D.Edition!