A Study in Layers and Finishing: The New Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar and Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Steel

Under new leadership, Roger Dubuis has been cautiously retracing its steps back to its roots. Over the past decade, the manufacture’s unapologetic brand of “hyper horology” has cultivated a devoted following. While its renewed focus on the late founder’s design codes has been warmly received, the team remains mindful not to alienate long-time collectors who have come to embrace its more audacious identity.

When the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar made its debut exactly a year ago, it encapsulated this delicate balancing act. The bold Excalibur case, with its distinctly post-modern character, was retained, now paired with the signature biretrograde calendar complication first developed by Mr. Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht in 1989, along with Dubuis’ unmistakable double ellipses.

Today, under the leadership of CEO David Chaumet, the manufacture continues to reaffirm its origins—a direction clearly expressed in the two Poinçon de Genève-certified complications unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2026.

Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar EX1178

If you’re wondering, the midnight hue that adorns the 40mm pink gold Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is called Astral Blue mother-of-pearl.

The star attraction of Roger Dubuis’ Watches and Wonders 2026 showcase is driven by the new in-house RD850 caliber with 60-hour power reserve.

Roger Dubuis introduced a new month corrector in this new perpetual calendar, which also has a moonphase corrector that will only need to be actuated once every 122 years.

In scintillating Roger Dubuis fashion, 19 different finishes have been applied to the movement, and the dial comprises nine unique layers, which include Astral Blue mother-of-pearl discs and counters with polished angles, a brushed and coated main plate and leap year disc, an aventurine moonphase disc with domed 18K pink gold moon, and retrograde bridges with inner angled finishing.

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is priced at US$109,000.

Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Steel EX1209

The maison also debuted a 40mm steel biretrograde calendar. It is powered by the RD840 movement that the brand developed for the 30^th anniversary Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar EX1179 using Monsieur Dubuis’ original base calibers and blueprints.

A painstaking labor of love that is no less engrossing than the novelty above, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Steel’s movement is furnished with 14 finishing techniques and its dial is constructed from seven unique layers.

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Steel will go for $43,900.