Up Close: Blancpain Introduces 16 New Villeret Golden Hour References

While Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms has been the subject of much celebration and technical innovation recently, the manufacture’s Villeret collection remains one of its foundational pillars. Among collectors, its calendar moonphase , in particular, endures as a sought-after IYKYK icon.

Blancpain has just updated three of its Villeret models, introducing 16 new references designed to enhance wearability and user-friendliness. Haute Time had the pleasure of handling these brand-new novelties, which are currently displayed only in two Blancpain boutiques—in Singapore and New York City.

Founded in 1735 in the village of Villeret, Switzerland, Blancpain is the world’s oldest watch brand. When Jacques Piguet and the inimitable Jean-Claude Biver revived the marque in 1983, their flagship piece was the compact complete calendar moonphase, powered by the Calibre 6395. The impeccable design language that defined it—a slim case, double-stepped bezel, and Roman numerals—would later be formally christened the “Villeret” collection in 2003.

Dubbed the Villeret Golden Hour, these 16 new models showcase refined enhancements to the original design codes—subtle yet significant upgrades that hint at the direction Blancpain will take for future Villeret releases.

Three Models, 16 References

Available in stainless steel or 18k red gold with either an opaline or golden-brown dial, the 40mm Villeret Ultraplate stands just 8.7mm thick and houses the automatic Calibre 1151. This slender time-and-date model is eminently wearable, its understated dials exuding quiet sophistication and visual depth.

The 40mm Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune measures a modest 10.6mm in thickness and comes in the same case and dial variations. Its signature Blancpain moonphase now features a slightly larger aperture, while the curved pointer date hand and twin day and month windows maintain the collection’s classical calendar layout.

Unlike annual or perpetual calendars, a complete calendar requires adjustment for months shorter than 31 days—a task made effortless by Blancpain’s patented under-lug correctors introduced in 2005.

At Haute Time, we’ve been discussing the ‘dead zone’ recently, which is an age-old challenge that Blancpain too has resolved—this watch’s Calibre 6654.4 can be adjusted at any time of day.

The smaller Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune measures 33.2mm and is offered in the same case and dial variations, along with four diamond-set options. It is driven by the Calibre 913QL.P and adjusted via traditional mid-case correctors that require a tool. While the Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune features Blancpain’s signature smirking moon, this model—aimed at a feminine audience—displays a demurer moon with closed eyes.

Across the collection, prices range from USD 13,100 for the steel Villeret Ultraplate to USD 36,000 for the Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune in 18k gold.

Subtle Upgrades

Blancpain enthusiasts will immediately notice several design evolutions. The whimsical, serifed Roman numerals of earlier Villeret models have been replaced by more solemn, sans serif-style numerals, while the openworked leaf hands have been slimmed and treated with luminescent coating.

The brand retains its popular 40mm case size but introduces a slightly slimmer bezel, drawing more attention to the dial’s elegant expanse. The hand-stitched, saddle-cut leather straps—available in beige nubuck, blue-grey, brown, and honey tones—can now be swapped easily thanks to a new quick-release system.

At 12 o’clock, the applied numeral has been replaced by the JB emblem, a nod to founder Jehan-Jacques Blancpain. The same motif appears on the openworked oscillating weight, which has been beautifully finished with alternating hand-applied textures.