The Art of the Freak: Ulysse Nardin Drops The Freak [X Gold Enamel]

Another Freak has officially entered the scene. Ulysse Nardin’s Freak [X Gold Enamel] blends groundbreaking mechanics with the ancient art of enameling, cementing the brand’s legacy as a pioneer in haute horlogerie. Limited to just 120 pieces, this timepiece is a bold testament to Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to pushing boundaries while honoring the meticulous craftsmanship of its Donzé Cadrans atelier. The Freak [X Gold Enamel] is the perfect new addition to the extensive Freak repertoire, continuing the brand’s exploration of the Freak.

The Freak collection, born in 2001, redefined watchmaking with its audacious no-dial, no-hands, no-crown design. Conceived by then-owner Rolf W. Schnyder, the Freak introduced silicon to the industry—a material prized for its lightweight durability and resistance to magnetism. This innovation, coupled with over 20 patents, transformed the Freak into an icon, with the Freak One earning the prestigious Iconic Watch Prize at the 2023 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The Freak X, launched in 2019, brought this revolutionary spirit to a broader audience with a slimmer 43 mm case and a crown for intuitive winding and time-setting, making it a versatile yet uncompromising daily wearer.

At the heart of the Freak [X Gold Enamel] lies its signature flying carousel, a mesmerizing complication where the entire movement rotates to indicate time. A pointer on a rotating disc marks the hours, while the movement itself completes a full revolution every hour to display minutes. This dynamic mechanism, free of an upper bridge, creates a captivating visual effect, amplified by the watch’s striking guilloché-flinqué dial. Crafted from 22-carat rose gold, the dial is adorned with multiple layers of vibrant blue enamel, a nod to Ulysse Nardin’s maritime heritage. The sunray pattern enhances the carousel’s rotational dance, ensuring each piece is visually unique.

The enamelling process, executed by Donzé Cadrans, is a masterclass in precision and patience. Acquired by Ulysse Nardin in 2011 after decades of collaboration, the Le Locle-based atelier is renowned for mastering techniques like Grand Feu and Guilloché-Flinqué. Each dial begins with raw compounds ground into a fine powder, mixed with water, and applied in layers, with each layer fired at 800°C. The process, which takes eight hours per dial, is fraught with challenges—bubbling or cracking can force a restart. The rose gold disc, chosen for its thermal stability, must withstand these extreme temperatures while incorporating screw fittings as a functional movement component, adding further complexity. The final polish, a delicate hour-long task, ensures a radiant, flawless finish.

The watch’s design is as bold as its mechanics. Encased in blue PVD titanium with rose gold accents, it features a rose gold-colored minute bridge and Super-LumiNova-treated hour markers for optimal legibility. A 72-hour power reserve ensures reliability, while the blue alligator strap, detailed with rose gold stitching and a titanium-rose gold buckle, adds elegance. The interplay of materials and colors creates a striking contrast, balancing avant-garde aesthetics with wearable sophistication.

Donzé Cadrans’ artisans, some with over 30 years of experience, embody the heritage of enameling, a craft dating back 3,000 years to ancient civilizations. With only eight artisans and an annual output of 1,200 dials, the atelier’s work is exclusive, serving Ulysse Nardin and other elite watchmakers. The Freak [X Gold Enamel] showcases their expertise, with each dial reflecting a unique depth and tone, impossible to replicate by machine.