Tariffs, Sotheby’s x WatchCheck, Auctions: What Does This Mean For Pre-Owned & Vintage Watches?

Vintage watches are a hot topic in the horology world. Whether it’s seasoned collectors picking up their latest heirloom or young enthusiasts getting their hands on a cool piece they can afford, everyone is voting for vintage. There are a multitude of barriers when it comes to picking up a vintage piece, not least among them the authenticity. Now, with new tariffs for European imports threatening the future of this community, what lies ahead?

Prior to the tariffs being placed on major vintage watch supplying countries, Sotheby’s announced an exciting collaboration project with WatchCheck, an online watch servicing platform. Their collaboration will allow Sotheby’s customers in the US to log in and select to have their watch serviced from a catalog of over 30,000. Ranging from run-of-the-mill watches to 19th-century antiques and 21st-century grand complications, no job is too complex. “One of the main pain points that has historically made vintage watch ownership less straightforward is indeed repair,” says WatchCheck co-founder Linden Lazarus. Not only can it be a wild goose chase for collectors to find a technician, gatekeeping of technicians for fear of work not being completed properly is commonplace. Lazarus told HauteTime the collaboration was long anticipated. Both brands were friendly, and their purposes aligned, too – to act as stewards for people’s most prized possessions. “The Sotheby’s team innately understood the need for clients and the radical change that the WatchCheck approach could bring,” he added.

The collaboration does, however, come at an interesting time for the pre-owned watch industry, which is expected to grow to $32.05 billion by 2032. While price and design are leading reasons for consumers to opt for vintage watches, consumer sentiment also certainly leans towards nostalgia, playing a huge role. “When someone invests in a fine watch or piece of jewelry, it’s definitely not just about the specs or materials. It’s about the feeling it gives them. Whether it’s a vintage-style engagement ring or a watch that reminds someone of their grandfather, emotion is what makes the piece truly valuable,” says Krish Himmatramka, founder of the jewelry brand Do Amore.

If the emotions weren’t enough, there’s the small matter of the lack of watches in DTC stores. The collaboration between WatchCheck and Sotheby’s gestures a growing trend of auction houses encouraging the sale of pre-owned watches at a time when DTC stores are pretty much empty or when waiting lists are only getting longer. A report by Deloitte on the watch industry showed that compared with 2022, consumers in 2024 were more likely to either purchase or change their decision to purchase a watch altogether due to the shortage of watches in stock. In fact, immediate availability is a motivation for 23% of buyers. Auction houses are certainly helping the industry achieve big numbers, too. 

The Geneva auctions in October and November 2024 saw a 26.7% increase in sales value from the previous year, at $114.19 million.

Among other popular sales channels for vintage watches are e-commerce platforms. “We’re seeing more and more confidence in online purchasing—even for big-ticket items. Today’s customer is incredibly savvy,” Himmatramka told Haute Time. “They do their research, read reviews, watch videos, and value transparency more than a showroom,” he added. Gen Y and Z are among the most likely buyers of pre-owned watches, and Gen Z has a strong inclination towards e-commerce, with 55% preferring to shop online, whether for a new or pre-owned watch.

Indeed, it looks like there are no grey clouds in the sky for the preowned industry. For the rest of the industry, however, a dark storm came its way in the form of the tariff announcement. A 31% tariff was announced on Swiss imports during the buzz of Watches & Wonders 2025. Reports show that Swiss watch production reached historic lows in 2024, prompted by slowing demand in Asia. The harsh tariffs are a wake-up call for the Swiss industry, which is preparing for tough times ahead. But the Swiss watch industry has proven its resilience and adaptability time and time again. Recently, during the pandemic, supply slowed, and still, the industry found a way to rebound.

While it’s too soon to suggest what these tariffs might mean for demand, watch prices, or import volumes, it poses a golden opportunity for vintage watches.