September 10, 2026Independent Watch Journalism Since 2006Newsletter  |  Search
Haute Time Collectors Club Free membership · the weekly watch brief, release alerts and invitations Join ›
Haute Time  ›  Geneva Watch Days 2026  ›  3 More Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2026:…
Geneva Watch Days 2026

3 More Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2026: URWERK, Bvlgari x Vianney Halter, and H. Moser

3 More Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2026: URWERK, Bvlgari x Vianney Halter, and H. Moser
Courtesy of URWERK

Geneva Watch Days 2026 produced no shortage of headline chronographs and flagship complications, but some of the week’s most interesting watches were the ones built to be argued about. A yellow-gold satellite-display watch that snaps its minute hand back in a hundredth of a second. A steampunk dual-time built by an independent watchmaker inside a Bvlgari case. A tourbillon carved into ceramic and co-signed by a Formula 1 team. Here are three that deserve a longer look, alongside the pick of what else came out of Geneva last week.

The Haute Minute

Three standout releases from Geneva Watch Days 2026: URWERK's yellow-gold UR-150 Golden Scorpion, Bvlgari's steampunk Octo Finissimo Dual Time built with independent watchmaker Vianney Halter, and H. Moser & Cie.'s ceramic Streamliner Tourbillon made with Alpine F1.

URWERK UR-150 Golden Scorpion: Yellow Gold Puts on a Show

URWERK UR-150 Golden Scorpion
Courtesy of URWERK

URWERK’s UR-150 “Scorpion” has already appeared in titanium, steel and a striking blue edition since its 2024 debut. At Geneva Watch Days 2026, the Geneva independent gave the design its most formal treatment yet: a case in satin-finished, microblasted 2N yellow gold, paired with a sandblasted Grade 5 titanium caseback. URWERK calls it the Golden Scorpion, and it is limited to 25 pieces at CHF 105,000, excluding taxes.

The gold doesn’t change what makes the UR-150 strange. Three hour satellites rotate on a central carousel while a retrograde minute hand sweeps across a 240-degree arc — nearly twice the range of URWERK’s earlier satellite watches. At the top of the hour, the mechanism does something most watches spend their whole existence trying not to do: it snaps. The minute hand jumps back to zero in one-hundredth of a second while the hour satellites simultaneously rotate 270 degrees to bring the next hour into position, a piece of mechanical theater powered by a spring URWERK developed and machines in-house specifically for this release.

URWERK UR-150 Golden Scorpion: Specifications

Case 42.49mm x 52.31mm x 14.79mm, satin-finished and microblasted 2N yellow gold, sandblasted titanium caseback
Movement Caliber UR-50.01, self-winding, 38 jewels
Frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz)
Power reserve 43 hours
Functions Rotating hour satellites with retrograde flyback minutes over a 240° arc
Water resistance 50m / 5 ATM
Strap Adjustable hybrid rubber, folding clasp
Limited edition 25 pieces
Price CHF 105,000, excluding taxes

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter: An Independent Watchmaker Inside an Octo Case

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter
Courtesy of Bvlgari

Bvlgari has spent the past decade collecting record-setting “world’s thinnest” titles with the Octo Finissimo. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, it did something it had never done with the line before: handed the dial design to an outside independent watchmaker. The result, the Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, is the first Octo Finissimo collaboration of its kind, and it looks nothing like the brand’s usual minimalist playbook.

Halter is best known for the Antiqua, an early expression of the steampunk aesthetic in modern independent watchmaking, and its fingerprints are all over this dial: porthole-style sub-registers, exposed gearing and a deliberately mechanical, industrial look, worked in this case around a Bvlgari GMT layout with a day/night indicator and rotating date. Underneath sits the new caliber BVF 200, a self-winding movement Bvlgari developed from the Octo Finissimo’s ultra-thin BVL 138 micro-rotor base specifically to carry Halter’s added functions, at a case thickness of just 9.70mm. The platinum micro-rotor is finished in rose gold and engraved with Halter’s own signature.

The watch comes in two versions: a 30-piece run in sandblasted titanium at CHF 70,000, and a 15-piece run in 18k rose gold at CHF 108,000, both excluding taxes, on a brown alligator strap.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter: Specifications

Case 40.5mm wide, 9.70mm thick; sandblasted titanium (ref. 104356) or 18k rose gold (ref. 104355)
Movement Caliber BVF 200, self-winding micro-rotor, based on the BVL 138, 5.49mm thick
Frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Power reserve 60 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds, GMT/second time zone, date, day/night indicator
Strap Brown alligator
Limited edition 30 pieces (titanium), 15 pieces (rose gold)
Price CHF 70,000 (titanium) / CHF 108,000 (rose gold), excluding taxes

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition: A Tourbillon Built Like a Race Car

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.

H. Moser & Cie.’s partnership with the Alpine Formula 1 team has already produced several colorful, motorsport-branded Streamliners. The newest version trades the loud liveries for something more technical: the entire case is milled from anthracite-grey ceramic, a material chosen for its scratch resistance and light weight rather than its color story, and it houses one of the brand’s more serious in-house complications.

Behind the fully skeletonized dial sits the manufacture caliber HMC 814, built around a one-minute flying tourbillon at six o’clock and a double hairspring — a detail borrowed from Moser’s precision-chronometry work rather than a purely decorative flourish. The openworked barrel at twelve o’clock and 167 visible components make the movement the real subject of the dial. Legibility comes from Globolight, a ceramic-and-Super-LumiNova composite used for the hands and indices, on an integrated blue Alcantara strap with a black DLC-treated titanium buckle.

H. Moser is limiting the reference to 100 pieces at CHF 79,000, excluding taxes.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine: Specifications

Case 40mm diameter x 12.8mm thick, anthracite-grey ceramic, screw-in crown
Movement Manufacture caliber HMC 814, self-winding, 28 jewels, 167 components
Frequency 21,600 vph (3Hz)
Power reserve 72 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon with double hairspring
Water resistance 120m
Strap Integrated blue Alcantara, black DLC titanium pin buckle
Limited edition 100 pieces
Price CHF 79,000, excluding taxes

What Ties These Three Together?

None of these watches are chasing the same customer. The URWERK is kinetic sculpture in precious metal for collectors who want their watch to visibly do something. The Bvlgari is a case study in what happens when a maison known for restraint hands the pen to an independent famous for the opposite. The Moser is a tourbillon dressed as a piece of motorsport equipment, ceramic case and all. What connects them is a week where several of the industry’s most disciplined brands used Geneva Watch Days to take a genuine design risk rather than simply widen an existing line.

More From Geneva Watch Days 2026

These three add to a strong week of Geneva coverage on Haute Time. TAG Heuer marked 50 years of the Monza with a forged-carbon flyback chronograph limited edition — read our full report on the TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronograph. Zenith used the week to prove the El Primero doesn’t need a chronograph to make its case, with the time-only Chronomaster Solo Sport. And Girard-Perregaux marked the Laureato’s own anniversary with a serious in-house complication in our coverage of the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon.

FAQ

How much does the URWERK UR-150 Golden Scorpion cost?
CHF 105,000, excluding taxes, for one of 25 pieces.

What makes the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter different from other Octo Finissimo watches?
It’s the first Octo Finissimo dial designed by an outside independent watchmaker. Vianney Halter, known for the steampunk-influenced Antiqua, brought that aesthetic to a new GMT complication built on Bvlgari’s ultra-thin BVL 138 base, resulting in the new BVF 200 caliber.

Is the H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine a real racing partnership, or just branding?
It’s a genuine ongoing collaboration between H. Moser & Cie. and the Alpine Formula 1 team, now several releases deep. This version uses a ceramic case rather than the brighter team liveries of earlier Streamliner Alpine editions, with the in-house HMC 814 tourbillon movement doing the real technical work.

Are any of these three watches still available to order?
All three are new releases from Geneva Watch Days 2026, sold through each maison’s boutiques and authorized retailers while supplies of their limited runs last — 25 pieces for the URWERK, 30 and 15 pieces for the two Bvlgari versions, and 100 pieces for the H. Moser.

At a Glance: Price, Limited Edition and Movement
WatchPriceLimited EditionMovement
URWERK UR-150 Golden ScorpionCHF 105,00025 piecesCaliber UR-50.01, satellite hours + retrograde flyback minutes
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney HalterCHF 70,000 (titanium) / CHF 108,000 (rose gold)30 pieces (titanium), 15 pieces (rose gold)Caliber BVF 200, GMT/dual time
H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic AlpineCHF 79,000100 piecesCaliber HMC 814, one-minute flying tourbillon

Timely FAQs

How much does the URWERK UR-150 Golden Scorpion cost?
CHF 105,000, excluding taxes, for one of 25 pieces.
What makes the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter different from other Octo Finissimo watches?
It's the first Octo Finissimo dial designed by an outside independent watchmaker. Vianney Halter, known for the steampunk-influenced Antiqua, brought that aesthetic to a new GMT complication built on Bvlgari's ultra-thin BVL 138 base, resulting in the new BVF 200 caliber.
Is the H. Moser Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine a real racing partnership, or just branding?
It's a genuine ongoing collaboration between H. Moser & Cie. and the Alpine Formula 1 team, now several releases deep. This version uses a ceramic case rather than the brighter team liveries of earlier Streamliner Alpine editions, with the in-house HMC 814 tourbillon movement doing the real technical work.
Are any of these three watches still available to order?
All three are new releases from Geneva Watch Days 2026, sold through each maison's boutiques and authorized retailers while supplies of their limited runs last - 25 pieces for the URWERK, 30 and 15 pieces for the two Bvlgari versions, and 100 pieces for the H. Moser.
Seth Semilof
Seth Semilof
Co-Founder & COO · Haute Time
Seth Semilof co-founded Haute Living and, with business partner Kamal Hotchandani, launched Haute Time, the brands' luxury timepiece site, to educate buyers about the best watches in the world and to showcase the passion of collectors and the CEOs who lead the great maisons. His love of watches began early: a TAG Heuer at 13, an Omega at 16, and his first Rolex at 20. Through Haute Time he has been honored to visit the greatest watch manufactures in the world and meet the master watchmakers behind them. He has also personally featured private collections exclusive to Haute Time, taking readers inside the watch boxes of Kevin Hart, Carmelo Anthony, Tony Robbins and Swizz Beatz.
Haute Time Collectors Club

The watch brief, every week. Free.

New references, auction results and the stories behind them — written for collectors, sent once a week.

Become a member
Haute Time · Collectors Club · Masthead · Editorial Standards · Advertise · Privacy · Terms