From Monete Catene Secret Watches To New Octo Finissimos, Bulgari Releases Six Incredible Wonders At Geneva Watch Days 2023

‘Tis the season where we return to Geneva just six months after Watches and Wonders (which feels like yesterday) to discover more timepiece novelties — and to say Bulgari brought it would be quite an understatement. From continuing its Octo Finissimo journey by introducing new models in the innovative carbongold material to the iconic secret watches where the worlds of haute joaillerie and horology collide, we’re taking a haute look at the six new Bulgari wonders presented this year.

Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic & Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar

Bulgari presents an exquisite horological revelation with the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic and the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar. Rekindling the Octo Finissimo legacy, which previously achieved world records in 2017 and 2021, these timepieces are reborn in a harmonious fusion of high-tech anthracite carbon and opulent gold accents. This innovative blend of materials, conceived in 1993 through Bulgari’s visionary approach to watchmaking, has resurfaced to redefine the boundaries of modern horology. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold models marry the lightweight, matte-finished carbon case, strap, and dial with the lavish brilliance of golden elements, resulting in a bold statement that artfully intertwines luxury and technology.

The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold watches are a visual masterpiece where Italian flair harmonizes with Swiss ultra-slim precision. The captivating blend of carbon and gold materials takes center stage, with the case, strap, and dial crafted from lightweight anthracite carbon. Glimmers of opulence emerge through the golden display elements and crown, beautifully contrasting the technological backdrop. This innovative juxtaposition of materials is a testament to Bulgari’s early experimentation, as they pushed the boundaries of material science in 1993. The Octo Finissimo’s architectural design philosophy, which seamlessly marries round bezels with octagonal watch faces, remains evident, and the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar proudly carries on the tradition of setting records, including the coveted Aiguille d’Or prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2021. The redesigned caliber BVL 305, measuring an astounding 2.75 mm in profile, lends a resolutely contemporary aesthetic to the classic ultra-thin perpetual calendar complication, further enriching the narrative of innovation within the watchmaking world. The Estetica della Meccanica, Bulgari’s signature ‘aesthetic of mechanics,’ is on full display with the transparent caseback, adorned by the intricate Côte de Genève-decorated rose gold bridges and the oscillating weight, forged from rose gold-plated platinum, held in place by eight precious metal screws that create a mesmerizing micro-sunburst pattern against the carbon surface.

Serpenti Misteriosi

Bulgari’s Serpenti Misteriosi, an enduring icon, reveals its enchanting twists in captivating new iterations. The allure of white gold adorned with a diamond pavé and the irresistible charm of rose gold embellished with scales of black lacquer and diamonds define these variations. Entrancingly poised, the serpent’s head with its emerald eyes conceals a pavé-set dial, driven by the heart of the Piccolissimo miniature movement. These Serpenti Misteriosi secret watches draw inspiration from the rich creative legacy of the “Roman Jeweller of Time,” showcasing Bulgari’s mastery in merging opulent jewelry with ultra-thin timepieces.

Bulgari ingeniously reintroduces mechanical time to High Jewelry, aligning two of its core strengths – exquisite jewelry and ultra-thin watchmaking. This convergence is made possible by the engineering prowess of the caliber BVL 100, aptly named Piccolissimo, meaning ‘very, very small’ in Italian. As the thinnest movement available on the market, designed and manufactured by Bulgari, it signifies the brand’s dedication to finesse and precision, combining them with the ideal dimensions for powering high jewelry watches like the Serpenti Misteriosi. The movement’s winding mechanism is located under the serpent’s head, offering a seamless fusion of mechanical prowess and artistic elegance.

The snake, a potent symbol revered since ancient cultures, has been a longstanding inspiration for Bulgari. From Elizabeth Taylor’s iconic Serpenti secret watch with a dragon’s head to the present Serpenti Misteriosi, the serpent’s allure is evident. Bulgari’s contemporary reinterpretation focuses on lightness and a perfect fit. Emerald eyes, reminiscent of Liz Taylor’s favored gemstone, captivate with their gaze, while a flick of the tongue unveils the diamond-paved dial. The watch is ingeniously designed to be detachable, enabling the Serpenti Misteriosi to be worn on either arm with the dial adjusted accordingly, adding an element of versatility and sophistication.

The timeless magnificence of the Serpenti Misteriosi lies in its meticulous craftsmanship. Each hexagonal scale is meticulously cast using the ancient lost-wax technique. The Serpenti Misteriosi in white gold boasts 116 brilliant-cut diamonds (32.91 carats), while its rose gold counterpart elegantly combines black lacquer and navette-cut diamonds, creating mesmerizing patterns. The art of lacquering, inspired by ancient Egyptian enameling techniques, showcases Bulgari’s historical legacy. With over 80 hours dedicated to polishing and assembling, the Serpenti Misteriosi is a true testament to Bulgari’s commitment to exquisite craftsmanship and enduring beauty.

Monete Catene Secret Watches

Last but certainly not least, the Monete Catene secret watches, inspired by Nicola Bulgari’s innovative Gemme Nummarie concept from the mid-60s, embody the epitome of Bulgari’s artistry and craftsmanship. These high jewelry timepieces elevate precious antique coins – potent symbols of history – to new heights by fashioning them from gold and adorning them with diamonds. The supple chain bracelets, reminiscent of 1940s gourmet chains, gracefully encircle the wrist. Notably, the Monete Catene Dual Time cuff pays homage to a chapter from Bulgari’s watchmaking history, capturing the essence of High Jewelry through the lens of mechanical horology, powered by the Bulgari Piccolissimo movement.

The allure of antique coins, bearing witness to the grandeur of Ancient Rome and Greece, has long fascinated Bulgari, a Maison with deep roots in both civilizations. From the 1930s onwards, Bulgari envisioned refined objects and jewelry adorned with these historical coins, drawing inspiration from the aesthetics of 1st-century Roman jewelry. In 1966, Nicola Bulgari introduced the first Monete watches, reflecting his deep appreciation for these unique historical pieces. Presently, the Monete Catene secret watches feature rare coins, with the Monete Catene Dual Time cuff evoking the reign of Emperor Septimius Severus and his empress, Julia Domna. A denarius, minted during the reign of Emperor Caracalla, graces the Monete Catene wristwatch, reflecting his strategic prowess.

The Monete Catene watches, designed with architectural precision, pay tribute to the Maison’s Roman heritage. The case design with 8 facets, akin to the Octo Monete watches of the time, evokes the symbolic geometry seen in the Maxentius Basilica ceiling in Rome. The Monete Catene Dual Time cuff derives inspiration from a rectangular watch crafted for Bulgari in the 1970s. Baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds in a delicate snow setting adorn the watch, and emerald cabochons on the sides provide the ‘keys’ to reveal hidden dials. These exquisite timepieces extend into precious chain bracelets, embodying Bulgari’s creative heritage since the 1940s. The Piccolissimo BVL 100 movement, a horological marvel, lies at the heart of the Monete Catene, blending high jewelry and watchmaking expertise to weave the richness of history into a transcendent fusion of art and time.