August 14, 2026Independent Watch Journalism Since 2006Newsletter  |  Search
Haute Time Collectors Club Free membership · the weekly watch brief, release alerts and invitations Join ›
Haute Time  ›  News  ›  An Inclined Balance Wheel Complication for Under $10,000
News

An Inclined Balance Wheel Complication for Under $10,000

A young Singaporean-Canadian watch brand is building angled balances and retailing these complications for USD 7,500.

An Inclined Balance Wheel Complication for Under $10,000

Z. L. Toh, also known as Kenny, was a watch collector who knew little about traditional craftsmanship. He would play YouTube videos by Tim Mosso of The 1916 Company while going about his day. One particular video, where Mosso delved deeply into the art of lacquering, heat-bluing, guilloché, and hand-polishing, stopped Kenny in his tracks.

The Haute Minute

A young Singaporean-Canadian watch brand is building angled balances and retailing these complications for USD 7,500.

An Inclined Balance Wheel Complication for Under $10,000
The Series 1 has a laser-engraved guilloché dial and heat-colored handsPhoto credit: ZLTD Watches

Spellbound by the artistry, Kenny decided to learn these techniques firsthand and set up a home studio. He applied them to simple Sellita-powered watches, which he named Series 1. He hand-polished their hour markers, and heat-treated the hands to produce a range of rich colors.

An Inclined Balance Wheel Complication for Under $10,000
Series 1Photo credit: ZLTD Watches

But Kenny wasn’t content with that. Through his network, he connected with Raf Dzwonek, a Canadian engineer with expertise in CNC (Computer Numerical Control) machining who could help bring Kenny’s more ambitious ideas to life. From Series 1.5 onward, they collaborated, using Raf’s CNC equipment to craft the components more precisely.

An Inclined Balance Wheel Complication for Under $10,000
The Series 1.5 features anodized dials with two color options—bronze (pictured) and auberginePhoto credit: ZLTD Watches

Together, they founded the brand ZLTD (for Z. L. Toh & Dzwonek) and began incorporating more artisanal finishing details. For instance, they lacquer the chapter rings using red Japanese cashew urushi lacquer—a nod to the flags of both Singapore and Canada—and use a rose engine to guilloché dials.

An Inclined Balance Wheel Complication for Under $10,000
The Special Series featured a hand-guillochéd dial and was made in collaboration with Legacy Watch Co.Photo credit: ZLTD Watches

Raf made a particularly impressive modification for the Series 1.5 movement: by re-engineering the Sellita SW330 movement, he added a second crown position that lets you adjust the hour hand independently.

Their leather straps are made by an artisanal workshop called Atelier Kai, and Raf personally hand-finishes every ZLTD watch.

An Inclined Balance Wheel Complication for Under $10,000
The open caseback of the Special SeriesPhoto credit: ZLTD Watches

At Spring Sprang Sprung, an independent watch exhibition held earlier this month, ZLTD inadvertently stole the show with their most daring creation yet: the Series 2, featuring an inclined balance wheel.

This complication, which sets the “pacemaker” of the watch an angle, is difficult to execute and can only be found in a handful of watches by haute horlogerie brands like Greubel Forsey and Roger Dubuis. These rare complications often cost well over CHF 200,000.

ZLTD’s asking price for the prototype? Just US$ 7,500.

An Inclined Balance Wheel Complication for Under $10,000
Series 2Photo credit: ZLTD Watches

Kenny admits the reveal was unintentional. All 20 planned pieces—scheduled for delivery in 2026—have already been spoken for.

“The natural evolution of a young watch brand might be from central seconds to a small-seconds counter,” he explains, “but Raf said he could engineer an inclined balance wheel.”

Together, they spent a year building it: modifying an ETA 6498 caliber, designing bespoke bridges, and hand-finishing its surfaces.

An Inclined Balance Wheel Complication for Under $10,000
Series 2Photo credit: ZLTD Watches

“We kept the price of the Series 2 to USD 7,500 because we didn’t want to outprice our collectors,” divulges Kenny, adding that the substantial production costs have left him with a slim margin.

He humbly emphasizes that his inclined balance wheel is developed from an ETA base, while those of fine watchmaking’s top echelon are painstakingly developed from the ground up.

An Inclined Balance Wheel Complication for Under $10,000
Kenny Z.L. Toh (left) and Raf DzwonekPhoto credit: ZLTD Watches

“We’re nothing compared to Greubel Forsey or Roger Dubuis in terms of finishing—we don’t even breathe the same air as them,” he says candidly.

Still, his brand offers the everyman a rare chance to own an inclined balance wheel complication, along with a slice of what may become new-world watchmaking history.

“But we aspire to reach that level one day, and produce more in-house complications.”

In This Story
Andre Frois
Andre Frois
Asia Editor · Haute Time
Andre Frois, previously the Editor-in-Chief of Revolution Asia, brings a wealth of experience to Haute Time. A Singaporean of Portuguese-Chinese descent, Frois has been creating compelling watch content since 2010 for prestigious publications such as Tatler, World of Watches, and The Peak. Renowned for his ability to distill the technical, historical, and financial aspects of watches into accessible narratives, he has also made a mark with investigative stories for VICE and the South China Morning Post. A graduate of NTU’s School of Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering with a specialization in biomedical engineering, Frois furthered his expertise with a specialist diploma in Sport Science.
Haute Time Collectors Club

The watch brief, every week. Free.

New references, auction results and the stories behind them — written for collectors, sent once a week.

Become a member
Haute Time · Collectors Club · Masthead · Editorial Standards · Advertise · Privacy · Terms