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Haute Time  ›  News  ›  Breguet Takes Nautical Watchmaking in a New Direction
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Breguet Takes Nautical Watchmaking in a New Direction

Breguet refreshes the Marine 5517 and 5527 with hand guilloché, nautical details, precious metals and advanced mechanical movements.

Breguet Takes Nautical Watchmaking in a New Direction
Courtesy of Breguet

Breguet gives its Marine collection a fresh expression with new versions of the Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527, bringing together hand guilloché craftsmanship, contemporary materials and details inspired by the Maison’s long connection to maritime precision.

The Haute Minute

Breguet refreshes its Marine collection with new Marine 5517 and Chronographe 5527 models combining nautical inspiration, hand guilloché and sophisticated mechanical performance.

The Marine collection traces its identity to Abraham Louis Breguet’s appointment as Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy in 1815. His chronometers accompanied navigators and explorers on major expeditions, including voyages across the Pacific, around the world and to Antarctica. That history continues to shape the modern Marine collection, where performance, robustness and aesthetics draw directly from navigation.

Courtesy of Breguet

The new Marine 5517 takes the collection’s refined side, featuring a three hand display with the date positioned at 6 o’clock. This placement creates a more balanced and symmetrical dial while allowing the hand guilloché decoration to remain a central visual feature.

At the center of the design is the “Quai de l’Horloge” motif, a hand guilloché pattern introduced to mark Breguet’s 250th anniversary. Its design references the contours of the Île de la Cité and Île Saint Louis while also suggesting the movement of waves, making it particularly suited to the Marine collection.

The intricate pattern is executed on a gold base before being covered with lacquer to create greater depth and intensity. The new versions introduce distinct color combinations: ice blue for the white gold model, black for the rose gold version and a subtle blue for the titanium interpretation.

Breguet’s signature design language remains clearly visible. The Marine 5517 features Breguet Arabic numerals and the Maison’s characteristic apple hands, while the seconds hand carries a “B” reference to the maritime Bravo flag. The crown guard takes inspiration from waves, while the gold oscillating weight visible through the sapphire caseback echoes the shape of a ship’s rudder.

The white gold Marine 5517 measures 40mm in diameter and 11.50mm thick, with a 10 bar water resistance rating. It is available on either a rubber strap or an 18K white gold bracelet. The rose gold and titanium versions retain the same 40mm proportions and 100 metre water resistance, with materials and dial treatments adapted to each interpretation.

Powering the Marine 5517 is the self winding Calibre 777A, individually numbered and signed by Breguet. Measuring 4.3mm thick, the movement contains 235 components and 26 jewels, operates at 4Hz and provides a 55 hour power reserve. Its silicon spiral reflects the Maison’s combination of traditional watchmaking and modern technical development.

Courtesy of Breguet

The Marine Chronographe 5527 takes a sportier approach. Its defining feature is a flyback chronograph, with a large central hand measuring elapsed seconds and two counters positioned between 3 and 9 o’clock for the chronograph minutes and small seconds. The arrangement maintains legibility while giving the dial a more dynamic character.

Like the 5517, the 5527 uses a gold dial decorated with the “Quai de l’Horloge” hand guilloché pattern. The color treatment varies according to the case, with blue or grey tones creating contrast across the different versions. The date has also been moved to 6 o’clock, while a gold Breguet appliqué sits at 12 o’clock.

The nautical references continue throughout the chronograph. Its central chronograph hand incorporates the “B” associated with the Bravo maritime flag, the crown reflects the movement of waves and the gold oscillating weight on the reverse takes inspiration from a ship’s rudder.

The Marine Chronographe 5527 measures 42.3mm in diameter and 13.9mm thick. It is offered in white gold, rose gold and titanium, with each version available on either a rubber strap or a matching metal bracelet. Like the 5517, the chronograph is water resistant to 100 metres.

Courtesy of Breguet

Inside, the 5527 is powered by the self winding Calibre 582QA, a 343 component movement with 28 jewels and a 48 hour power reserve. The calibre operates at 4Hz and features a silicon balance spring and inverted silicon lever.

Together, the new Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527 demonstrate two complementary sides of Breguet’s maritime watchmaking. The 5517 focuses on purity, symmetry and refined finishing, while the 5527 introduces greater mechanical functionality through its flyback chronograph. Both retain the collection’s defining relationship with navigation through their guilloché, hands, crown details and movement decoration.

The result is a contemporary interpretation of Breguet’s maritime heritage that remains closely connected to the technical and artistic traditions established by Abraham Louis Breguet more than two centuries ago.

Timely FAQs

What are the new Breguet Marine 5517 and 5527?
They are new interpretations of Breguet’s Marine 5517 three hand watch and Marine Chronographe 5527 flyback chronograph, combining the collection’s maritime heritage with contemporary materials and finishing.
What is the Quai de l’Horloge guilloché pattern?
It is a hand guilloché motif inspired by the contours of the Île de la Cité and Île Saint Louis and the movement of waves. It was introduced to mark Breguet’s 250th anniversary.
What is the water resistance of the Marine watches?
Both the Marine 5517 and Marine Chronographe 5527 are rated to 10 bar, equivalent to 100 metres of water resistance.
Adrienne Faurote
Adrienne Faurote
Editor in Chief · Haute Time
As a former New Yorker, now a “Miamian,” Adrienne Faurote joined Haute Living in August of 2021. She currently serves as the Haute Media Group Editor-in-Chief, overseeing all editorial platforms within the Haute Media Group while also maintaining her role as Fashion, Jewelry & Watch Director. Prior to her position at Haute Living, Faurote was the Market Editor at Marie Claire Magazine US, amassing over ten years in the industry, becoming an authoritative voice in all things fashion, jewelry, and watches.
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