The Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (Jiao): A Celebration of Chinese Artistry Minus the Clichés

I first met Wilfried Buiron and Robin Tallendier in 2022 as they crisscrossed the globe, rallying watch insiders to take notice of their unorthodox offerings. At the time, few expected the duo, then still in their mid-twenties, to make headlines with Chinese heritage-themed timepieces. Yet today, under the banner of Atelier Wen, they’ve built one of the most compelling new voices in horology.

Luxury watches inspired by Chinese culture are nothing new. Brands routinely churn out limited editions plastered with dragons, phoenixes, red dials, yellow gold, and the lucky number eight—superficial tropes aimed squarely at consumer spending power. Chinese buyers account for roughly a quarter of the global luxury watch market, but their culture is too often reduced to clichés.

That’s what makes Atelier Wen’s approach so refreshing. Rather than pander, they dig deeper, creating timepieces that celebrate Chinese identity and craftsmanship, without caricaturizing them.

Cultural Immersion

Though ancestrally European, Wilfried and Robin forged their connection to China firsthand. They met in 2016 while studying in Beijing and immersed themselves in the language, culture, and horological traditions of the region.

Wilfried, born in Hong Kong, is a serial entrepreneur who studied at both Peking and Tsinghua Universities. Robin, a graduate of the University of Warwick, Peking University, and the London Business School, previously worked with the French Chamber of Watchmaking in Shanghai and at Christie’s in London. He’s made it his mission to seek out China’s most skilled artisans and watchmakers, and was even appointed “Execution Expert” by the China Horologe Association.

Together, they founded Atelier Wen in 2017 and launched their debut line, Porcelain Odyssey, the following year. Their Kickstarter campaign in October 2018 funded two models—皓 (Hao) and 霁 (Ji)—and hit its goal in just 30 minutes.

After taking time to reassess their direction, they returned in April 2022 with Perception, a guilloché masterpiece that sold out in 16 hours.

Many of Atelier Wen’s watches were individually guilloched by Master Cheng Yucai, who is so particular about quality that he built his own patented rose turning machine.

Ancient Artistry, Reimagined

The duo’s latest release may be their most ambitious yet. The Atelier Wen Ancestra 蛟 (Jiao) is a 38mm showcase of traditional Chinese artistry, realized with thought-provoking modernity.

Its dial, crafted by master enameler Kong Lingjun’s esteemed workshop, features fumé grand feu enamel over silver. The multi-stage kiln-firing process, prone to failure, results in a shimmering gradient that shifts from silver to cobalt. Each dial is then hand-hammered and polished, ensuring no two are exactly alike.

The case, made of 904L stainless steel, is just as inspired. Its sculptural lugs take cues from the neolithic Hongshan jade dragon, believed to be the world’s earliest depiction of a dragon and one of China’s oldest jade artifacts. These polished and brushed lugs are bolted into place with screws inscribed with huiwen motifs, which is a spiral design also found on the screw-down crown.

Powering the Ancestra is the chronometer-grade Pequignet Calibre EPM03, a French automatic movement known for its robust architecture and refined finish. The rose gold-plated oscillating weight conceals a main bridge micro-etched with Qu Yuan’s classical poem, Questions to Heaven (天问). The movement also features mirror-polished elements, including the ratchet wheel and balance bridge—details that elevate the timepiece well beyond its price point.

At USD $5,850, the Ancestra is Atelier Wen’s most expensive offering to date, but it justifies every cent. Its hour markers are set with baguette-cut diamonds and custom calligraphy by Hong Kong artist Elaine Wong. A variant featuring Arabic numerals, designed by renowned typographer Lee Yuen-Rapati, is also available.

Completing the package is an Epsom leather strap lined with Zermatt calfskin, a lacquered Chinese-seal buckle, and a fold-out presentation box that doubles as a display.

At just 11.3mm thick, the Ancestra is lithe enough for everyday wear, yet nuanced in its storytelling. It’s not a limited edition in the traditional sense, but Atelier Wen will only accept orders from July 29 to August 4, after which the model will be permanently discontinued.

“This journey has taught us a great deal, both professionally and personally,” Robin divulges. “One important lesson has been that changing perceptions takes time, patience, and sincerity. Initially, we encountered skepticism regarding the high-quality craftsmanship originating from China, but through consistent collaboration with talented artisans and genuine storytelling, we’ve slowly started to shift these views.”