H. Moser & Cie. dropped a rather stunning new watch, honoring traditional Chinese Culture: the Endeavour Chinese Calendar Limited Edition.
By Adrienne Faurote
Setting the bar incredibly high as the most complicated wristwatch in Patek Philippe’s repertoire, is the Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300/400G.
A. Lange & Söhne presents two new versions of the award-winning Zeitwerk: the second-generation mechanical watch in platinum and pink gold.
A closer look at the new, unexpected, and incredibly exclusive Patek Philippe Ref. 5373P-001 Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph
This week's Haute Complication is the Patek Philippe Ref. 5172G-010 with vintage features, like the opaline rose-gilded dial.
The new-generation 36mm Oyster Perpetual Explorer returned to the Rolex repertoire in its size of the original model first launched in 1953.
Vacheron Constantin is a brand that dedicates a lot of time and resources to the preservation of fine artistic crafts. Combined with their passion for making highly complex watches, this results in one-of-a-kind timepieces like the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. As the name already indicates, it is dedicated to the Roman god of vines and wine. The engraver and gem setter worked in tandem to execute this theme in great detail. The bezel, lugs, and sides of the case were engraved with vines in a bas relief, where the gem setter placed the cabochon cut rubies representing the grapes. The result is as mesmerizing as it is breathtaking.
When visiting the village of Glashütte in Germany, the rest of the world seems far away. It is surrounded by beautiful nature, which gives it a deep sense of serenity, that the watchmakers there utilize to make the most marvelous creations. However, this stunning location doesn't mean that they are out of touch with the rest of the world. On the contrary, it gives them just the right perspective, as Glashütte Original proves with its Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar.
When launched for the first time in 2009, the Spin Time introduced a new concept of telling time. While a regular hand indicates the minutes, only the current hour is revealed. Its innovative movement places the hour markers, displayed on cubes attached to spokes, in their usual place on the dial. With the relevant hour shown against a background of gold, the remaining ones are hidden, with their cubes showing a different side decorated with motifs inspired by Louis Vuitton's famous luggage collections. The beauty of this concept is that it is not only highly legible, but also taps deep into the DNA of Louis Vuitton.
Ulysse Nardin is a brand with many traditions, and among them is the creation of watches that produce sound. One of the first complications that come to mind with this is the classic minute repeater. Ulysse Nardin incorporated them in legendary watches like the "Genghis Khan" and "Safari." But, another tradition with the Ulysse Nardin, even more paramount than all the others, is to innovate. In 2019 they teamed up with the high-end French audio brand Devialet, best known for their beautiful and outstanding speakers, to create a minute repeater with a unique sound experience. The sound of most minute repeaters is actually rather faint, but with the help of Devialet, Ulysse Nardin pumped up the jam of the Hourstriker Phantom to a very impressive 85dB. This collaboration was continued this year with the Blast Hourstriker.
For decades Jaeger-LeCoultre has been known as the watchmakers' watchmaker. The reason behind this is that its movements, and they have made over 1200 different calibers to date, are so good that they also supplied them to some of the greatest names in the watchworld, such as Cartier, Audemars Piguet, and Van Cleef & Arpels. One field in which they excel in particular is that of grande complications. In this, Jaeger-LeCoultre likes to challenge itself, as they did this year with the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185.
When one of the most desired sports watches in the world is fitted with a refined and complex movement, magic happens. This has for sure been the case with the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar Ref.5740/1G. Upon introduction, it took the famous Gerald Genta design to new heights as it has never before been fitted with a perpetual calendar movement. It can in many ways be seen as combining the best of both worlds: the iconic look of the Nautilus, with one of the sophisticated, complex movements Patek Philippe is known for.
With their 'Factory of time,' or la Fabrique du Temps, does Louis Vuitton possess a manufacture capable of making even the most complicated watches in-house. This can be innovative complications, like the Spin Time, but also more classic creations such as the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève. While it pays tribute to the ancient art of watchmaking, wouldn't this be a true Louis Vuitton if they didn't make it entirely their own.
When it comes to perpetual calendars does IWC has quite the reputation to uphold. It was mainly thanks to master watchmaker Kurt Klaus that this became one of the brand's signature complications. While we can especially credit the Da Vinci for achieving this in the first, putting the perpetual calendar in a 'Pilots'-watch, another thing IWC became famous for, only further enhanced its popularity. While a perpetual calendar is, in essence, a very classic complication, this gives it a contemporary edge.
There is no question that any Greubel Forsey is already a piece of horological art. It is a brand that has taken the term finish to new heights and utilizes them on some of the most sophisticated watches ever made. For the Art Piece Edition Historique, they took it a step further and decided not to display the time prominently, but instead put the focus on their double, inclined 30° tourbillon and exceptional relief micro-engraving.
This year it has been fourteen years ago since A. Lange & Söhne launched their Datograph Perpetual, yet it is still holding a prominent position as one of the most desirable pieces within the collection of the brand. As with many of the watches from this esteemed brand, is also this timepiece an elegant and classic creation. Day, month, and leap year are indicated in a traditional way, with hands on subdials. In between them, we find a window for the moon phase display. The outsize date is perhaps the most eyecatching feature of this watch, placed just below the twelve o'clock position, in two rectangular gold-rimmed windows. With this complication does the Datograph Perpetual also honor that typical A. Lange & Söhne tradition of displaying the date in such an oversized fashion.
With its double-stepped bezel is Blancpain's Villeret collection not only instantly recognizable but also a true classic. Its details are subtle, but because of that, all the more powerful. Such a case also forms the perfect framework for the Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Retrograde, which takes the purity of the Villeret-design to the next level with a tantalizing combination complications.