I’m a Dude, But I’d Wear the New Tudor Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue Every Day

I write a lot about the appreciation of watch values, but Tudor is a brand that’s risen above the incessant chatter about resale. Today, Tudor accounts for roughly 12% of all secondary market watch sales—collectors simply appreciate Tudors for the well-made watches that they are.

And here’s the kicker: you can probably walk into your nearest Tudor boutique and pick up a Black Bay, or at least get one within a few weeks of registering interest. Tudor doesn’t play the artificial scarcity game to drive hype, yet the secondary values of some Black Bay models remain surprisingly resilient and, in some cases, rising.

So, how did we get here?

Tudor was founded in 1926 by Rolex creator Hans Wilsdorf, who envisioned a more accessibly priced, yet equally reliable alternative to Rolex. For decades, Tudor garnered a niche following, but today, it’s the bee’s knees.

Arguably, the brand’s biggest turning point came in 2015, when Tudor launched its first in-house movement, the MT5621, inside the North Flag.

While fans were still hot and bothered, Tudor doubled down in 2016 by introducing Kenissi, its movement manufacturing arm located in Geneva and Le Locle. This powerhouse would go on to supply high-grade calibers not only to Tudor, but also to brands like Bell & Ross, Breitling, Chanel,and Norqain.

After launching the Black Bay collection in 2012 (in a rather chunky 41mm case), Tudor gradually streamlined its catalog, focusing on two main pillars: the Black Bay and the Pelagos.

Models like the North Flag were phased out, only to become sought-after on the secondary market by those who now realize what they missed.

In my view, 2023 marked the most pivotal year for the Black Bay collection. I won’t forget the moment at Watches and Wonders 2023 when the curtain lifted on the Black Bay 54—a svelte, 37mm dive watch that felt like the most wearable Tudor yet.

It was vintage-inspired, thoughtfully proportioned, and paid fitting tribute to the original Tudor 7922 from 1954—hence the name “54.”

Since then, Black Bays have been flying off Tudor shelves—still no waitlists, still no scarcity games. And in June 2025, Tudor swept headlines when it launched a future classic.

Lagoon Blue

I’ve never been one for somber aesthetics. I also don’t pretend I’ve dived to 100 meters. Honestly, I don’t think I’ve gone deeper than 30.

I love quirky, upbeat touches in my watches. So when Tudor unveiled the Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue on June 12, I was instantly smitten.

Legally, we can’t use the T-word to describe its color, but let’s just say it’s an immensely popular shade—a joyous, pastel turquoise that radiates summer energy.

This serene hue is rendered with a textured dial finish, a first for Tudor, a brand traditionally known for flat, matte surfaces. The dial also features dark blue printing, which subtly enhances its depth and character.

Like the 2023 Black Bay 54, this new Lagoon Blue model is also 37mm, powered by the COSC-certified Caliber MT5400, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring.

While it doesn’t have METAS certification, it still delivers impressive accuracy at -2/+4 seconds per day. At US$4,350, I won’t ask for more.

The watch features a polished steel bezel—a rare move for Tudor—and comes on a sleek five-link bracelet with alternating brushed and polished finishes.

Tudor, very thoughtfully, has left out diamonds and pink accents on the Lagoon Blue. Maybe so guys like me can wear it without feeling emasculated.

But let’s be real—it’s 2025, and plenty of men (not just rappers) are wearing diamond-studded watches.

If you’ve ever pined for a pastel-colored Oyster Perpetual, there’s absolutely nothing stopping you from rocking the Tudor Black Bay 54 Lagoon Blue.

Oh, and if you’re exploring colorful Tudors, you might enjoy the many GMT and chronograph renditions of the Black Bay too.