Four Perpetuals That Give A Sportive Twist To This Classic Complication

Four Perpetuals That Give A Sportive Twist To This Classic Complication

Martin Green
By Martin Green February 3, 2020

There was a time when the perpetual calendar was a complication that could only be found in classic, gold cases, fitted with alligator leather straps. They were revered and treasured, yet only worn when the activities weren’t too strenuous or potentially damaging to its complex movement. Times have changed, and today is a gold cased dress watch not automatically the timepiece of choice anymore for the rich and accomplished. In their active lives, they need a watch that can keep up with the pace, yet the fascination for the perpetual calendar hasn’t dwindled. When the brands combined both, by putting that revered complication in a sportive watch, something magical happened as the following four watches prove.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
When Vacheron Constantin created the Overseas, they made no compromise to their brand DNA. Don’t expect a timepiece on steroids here, but rather a sophisticated design that gives a sportive touch to the traditional Vacheron Constantin values. The dial has the classic layout but is further kept clean and legible. While its diameter of 41.5 mm gives it plenty of wrist presence, it is remarkable thin with a height of only 8.1 mm. This is one of those values that Vacheron Constantin, fortunately, didn’t want to sacrifice when creating a watch with a sportive touch, not even a complicated one. Its slenderness is made possible by caliber 1120 QP/1, which packs 276 parts in a movement that is a mere 4.05 mm thick. As is typical for the brand, no compromises have been made, and the movement is finished to perfection and certified with the Geneva Seal.  For those who want something a bit more understated and sportive than the pink gold version, is the Overseas Perpetual Calendar also available in white gold.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar King Gold

Hublot Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar King Gold
Vacheron Constantin is not the only one that offers a sportive perpetual calendar with a gold case in a warm tone. Hublot uses its proprietary King Gold, for the case of the Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar. Being a Big Bang means that other materials also enter the mix, such as polished and satin-finished ceramic for the bezel and rubber for the strap. These contrasts in textures and materials give the Hublot a lot of character. While there is an emphasis on readability, the brand left out pretty much the rest of the dial. This provides an exciting insight into all the parts that make the perpetual calendar function. This is, by the way, not the only complication that this watch has to offer, as it is also fitted with a chronograph. It is operated by robust and sturdy pushers integrated on the right side of the case. That the Big Bang Unico Perpetual Calendar means business is additionally proven by its water resistance, which is 10 bar.

IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Green

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire
Named after one of the most iconic planes in aviation history is the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire, a unique creation. It combines many different features that are uncommon to find in a single watch. When it comes to perpetual calendars, does the brand from Schaffhausen have a reputation to uphold. Home of the legendary Da Vinci, they can be credited with bringing the complication back to the forefront of watchmaking after the Quartz crisis. For this watch, they pack the perpetual calendar in a massive 46.2mm large case made from bronze. Over time this will take on a unique patina, which will complement the deep green dial beautifully. For IWC, it doesn’t stop there. Not only does this perpetual calendar show the current moon phase on both hemispheres, but it also displays the year in full, and has a power reserve of eight days.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar

Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740/1G
A perpetual calendar in one of the most recognized and desired sports watches in the world cannot be a better idea. With the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740/1G did Patek Philippe create an instant favorite within the already very popular collection. A deep blue sunburst dial shows all the calendar functions on three subdials and includes a moon phase indicator.  Despite the lack of a running seconds hand, is this watch all sportiveness. The case and bracelet feature beautiful brushed and polished surfaces, yet they are not crafted from stainless steel, but from white gold instead. This gives the watch a nice heft. Just as with the Vacheron Constantin, is also the movement in this Patek Philippe ultra-slim. The brand was able to limit the height to only 3.88mm and achieved this thanks to the use of an off-microrotor crafted from 22 karat gold.