Panerai Unveils “The Depths of Time” Exhibition & Launches Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218

Panerai Unveils “The Depths of Time” Exhibition & Launches Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218

Haute Time
By Haute Time September 16, 2025

Florence became the stage for a defining celebration as Panerai unveiled “The Depths of Time,” a landmark exhibition that retraces its journey from military supplier to luxury watchmaker. Alongside the event, the brand introduced the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218, a faithful reinterpretation of the 1993 reference that cemented Panerai’s civilian debut.

The exhibition marks the anniversary of September 10, 1993, when Panerai revealed its watches to the public for the first time. Before that historic moment, its creations were exclusively designed for the Royal Italian Navy, serving as indispensable instruments in demanding underwater missions. Until then, Panerai’s expertise remained hidden under layers of military secrecy.

Photo Credit: PANERAI

“The Depths of Time” provides an intimate look at the evolution of Panerai’s hallmark design features, each one born from functional necessity. The showcase includes previously unseen correspondence between the Panerai family and the Marina Militare, technical blueprints, archival photographs, and rare patents documenting advancements in luminosity, readability, and precision engineering.

Instruments such as compasses and depth gauges sit alongside original watches, illustrating Panerai’s holistic approach to creating tools for underwater operations. The narrative culminates with the civilian debut aboard the destroyer Luigi Durand de la Penne in 1993, where Panerai introduced the first Luminor and Mare Nostrum models in the presence of Duke Amedeo d’Aosta. This pivotal event marked the beginning of the brand’s global journey.

Held at Panerai’s flagship boutique in Florence, the Maison’s birthplace, the exhibition runs for two months before embarking on a global tour to the United States and China. It is both a tribute to the brand’s naval partnership and a reminder of its transformation into one of the most recognized names in luxury watchmaking.

At the preview event, Panerai unveiled the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218. This new release draws inspiration from the historic Luminor ref. 5218-202/A, which in 1993 was reserved exclusively for Marina Militare personnel. While the Luminor ref. 5218-201/A and Mare Nostrum ref. 5218-301/A were introduced to the public that same year, the 202/A remained a military-only timepiece.

The PAM05218 faithfully revisits that legacy while enhancing it with modern refinements. Its 44mm case echoes the size of the 1993 model, which represented a shift from Panerai’s traditional 47mm dimensions. This design choice created a sleeker profile while maintaining the rugged presence that became a Panerai signature.

 

Photo Credit: PANERAI

Crafted in steel and coated with DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon), the case mirrors the PVD finish of the original 202/A. The result is a deep black surface with exceptional hardness, wear resistance, and corrosion protection. This modern execution preserves the striking look that set the 1993 reference apart from its peers.

Inside, the watch is powered by the hand-wound P.6000 calibre. Offering a three-day power reserve, it features a traversing balance bridge for stability and a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. Its robust construction ensures accuracy and reliability, echoing the utilitarian roots of Panerai’s early commissions.

The dial reinforces the tribute with the “Marina Militare” inscription and a font carefully redrawn from the 1993 design. Instead of the brand’s sandwich construction, this model employs a monolayer hollowed dial engraved and filled with Super-LumiNova®. A concave finish enhances depth, giving numerals a three-dimensional appearance.

One of the most coveted traits of the original 202/A was the “non matching” patina created by chemical reactions between tritium and varnish. Numerals aged into a warm brown hue while the hands remained green, a rare and collectible anomaly. The PAM05218 recreates this intentionally with caramel Super-LumiNova® for the dial and lighter-toned lume on the hands.

Completing the vintage character is a golden brown calf leather strap with trapezoidal DLC-coated buckle, sewn in as on the 1993 model. An additional black rubber strap with a second buckle offers versatility. The closed steel caseback features the Officine Panerai Firenze signature, historic OP logo, and water resistance up to 30 bar, preserving the tool-watch spirit.

Photo Credit: PANERAI

Launching in boutiques in September 2025, the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 will be available on request, heightening its exclusivity. It is positioned as both a collector’s piece and a celebration of Panerai’s enduring bond with the Italian Navy.

Through the dual unveiling of “The Depths of Time” and the PAM05218, Panerai bridges past and present, reaffirming its identity as a watchmaker rooted in precision engineering and naval heritage. The exhibition honors the legacy of secrecy and service that defined its early years, while the new release showcases how those origins continue to inspire modern craftsmanship.

The story of Panerai is one of transformation, where functional necessity evolved into design mastery. From its beginnings as a supplier to the Italian Navy to its emergence as a global luxury brand, Panerai has remained faithful to its DNA of durability, readability, and distinctive character. With this anniversary, the Maison celebrates not just a watch, but the enduring depth of time itself.