Haute Complication: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin

Steel is the new gold, and there is fierce competition among the top-tier Swiss brands to please clients with their sportive creations in this metal. For this Vacheron Constantin has the Overseas, a collection which was revamped in 2016. While the steel-cased time-only and chronograph versions might be the ones that are the most important in regard to maintaining the brands market position in this field, there is still a demand for more complicated versions, even in precious metal, and Vacheron Constantin is happy to oblige to that with the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin.

Crafted from pink gold, not only the case but also the bracelet, is this watch a precious creation. Brushed and polished surfaces alternate and it is almost as if the unique shape of the bracelet, inspired on the Maltese Cross, the logo of the brand, comes even more to life. The way its design is integrated into the case is superb, but you truly realize this when you switch it for the alligator strap which is also comes with the watch and looks equally well. The dial is another part in which the small details make a difference. Vacheron Constantin went for a traditional layout of the perpetual calendar functions but included many subtle details in the subdials and moon phase disc. You might not notice them at first, but they do make a difference and elevate this watch into the highest echelons of watchmaking, a playing field Vacheron Constantin is so comfortable with.

That the Overseas count as one of the most sportive offerings of Vacheron Constantin doesn’t mean that it is big and bulky. With a diameter of 41.5 mm does it have a nice presence on the wrist without being too much of a good thing. Wearing comfort is also ensured, not only by the superb bracelet, but also by the fact that the case of this watch is only 8.10 mm thick, or thin as would be more appropriate. The movement that contributes to this is caliber 1120 QP/1, which has a height of only 4.05 mm. The fact that it features not only a perpetual calendar but also a full-size rotor makes this quite an accomplishment. It shows again the sophistication of this Overseas, which might be its biggest asset.