The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM: Swiss Design Never Misses a Beat

Two storied Swiss innovators have joined forces to unveil a quartet of vibrant sports watches. Powered by the revered El Primero 400 caliber, the Zenith Defy Chronograph USM is offered in just 60 pieces per color.

Forged in Ingenuity

USM traces its roots back to 1885, when Ulrich Schärer of Münsingen established an iron workshop just outside of Bern, Switzerland, combining his and his hometown’s initials to form the brand’s enduring name. Under the vision of his grandson Paul Schärer, the Swiss metalworks firm pivoted toward furniture in 1962.

The turning point came when Paul commissioned architect Fritz Haller to design a new factory and office pavilion. To complement this architecture, Haller conceived a modular furniture system that was transformable, functional and visually striking.

Originally intended solely for USM’s offices, the ball-jointed modular furniture soon captured the attention of major companies worldwide. Its design brilliance led to a patent in 1965, and over half a century later, the system remains as relevant as ever—still compatible with pieces made in the 1960s.

Today, USM continues to thrive from its Münsingen headquarters, celebrated for its versatility and enduring appeal.

The brand has collaborated with creative visionaries like Daniel Arsham, Rimowa and Supreme, and in 2021, the USM Haller system was inducted into the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA).

New Renditions of the Defy

Just four years after USM’s pivotal moment, Zenith achieved its own breakthrough. In 1969, the watchmaker unveiled the El Primero movement—capable of measuring 1/10^th of a second—an innovation that would cement its place in the pantheon of column wheel chronographs. In a recent article, we dove into the history of the El Primero, which has powered the high-precision chronographs of other horological giants.

The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM continues this legacy with a 37mm stainless steel case, water-resistant to 100 meters. Available in four bold hues—USM Gentian Blue, USM Pure Orange, USM Golden Yellow, and USM Green—the collection draws inspiration from the furniture label’s iconic palette.

The signature Defy design, defined by its octagonal case and 14-sided bezel, frames square indices adorned with horizontal grooves, a geometric harmony befitting both brands’ philosophies.

At its heart beats the El Primero 400, an evolution of the legendary 3019 PHC. Featuring a silicon escape wheel and lever, along with a 55-hour power reserve, this movement is visible through a transparent caseback, where Zenith’s star rotor proudly carries the USM logo. The chronograph displays Zenith’s signature overlapping subdials, finished with concentric circles, while the black-tipped chronograph hand pays a subtle homage to USM’s hallmark ball joint.

Completing the watch is Zenith’s “ladder” bracelet, designed exclusively for Zenith in 1969 by the famed Gay Frères company. Priced at USD 11,800, each piece arrives not in a traditional presentation box, but in a storage case crafted from USM ball joints—capable of housing up to twelve watches.