Diamond-set, Enameled and Hand-finished: Breguet’s New Timepieces Look Back to Move Forward

The Breguet Tradition ref. 7027, launched in 2005, marked the brand’s first modern pillar collection and remains central to the maison today.

Drawing inspiration from foundational horological milestones, such as founder Abraham-Louis Breguet’s tact watches and Souscription timepieces of the late 18th century, the Tradition line famously inverts the architecture of a watch, placing its mechanics dial-side. The result is a striking display of an intricately shot-blasted mainplate, satin-brushed bridges, and a symmetrically arranged gear train.

Hallmarks of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s innovations are also present throughout: the pare-chute shock protection system (visible around 4 o’clock) and the signature fluted caseband.

This year, Breguet introduces four new automatic Tradition Seconde Rétrograde models in varying sizes and aesthetics, alongside the manually wound Tradition GMT 7067. Notably, these releases emphasize Arabic numerals and Eastern Arabic (also known as ‘Oriental’) variants, marking a shift away from Roman numerals and a return to a style closely associated with Breguet himself.

Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037

The 38mm white gold Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037BB measures 12.7mm thick and is powered by the caliber 505 SR, offering a 50-hour power reserve. It features a silicon balance spring and a platinum oscillating weight—modern technical refinements that recall its founder’s enduring contributions to chronometry.

Its monochromatic blue execution extends across the bridges and Breguet-style hands to its hand-guilloché barrel cover. Since the launch of the Tradition collection, its barrel cover has served as a canvas for showcasing Breguet’s finesse in hand-finishing techniques—a subtle evolution that collectors have come to anticipate with each release.

The watch is paired with a blue rubber strap with saddle-style stitching, with an alternative white rubber option available.

At 12 o’clock, a white Grand Feu enamel subdial displays the hours and minutes, providing a classical counterpoint to the exposed mechanics.

Its platinum variant, the ref. 7037PT, adopts a more dramatic aesthetic, with a blackened movement and matching black Grand Feu enamel dial.

Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7038

Also powered by the caliber 505 SR, the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7038 is presented in a slightly smaller 37mm case crafted from rhodium-plated 18k white gold.

Set with 58 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel, it introduces a more jewelry-oriented interpretation of the Tradition design. The blackened movement is paired with an aventurine glass dial, lending a subtle, star-like shimmer that contrasts elegantly with the industrial architecture beneath.

This darker aesthetic continues with a satin-finished fabric strap, while the white gold pin buckle is set with an additional 25 diamonds, completing the piece with a cohesive, luxurious flourish.

Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7097

The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7097BR is housed in a 40mm 18k rose gold case measuring a relatively slim 11.8mm. It features a brushed gray barrel cover and its caliber 505 SR1’s gear train has been given a rose gold gilt.

Tradition GMT 7067

Rounding out the releases is the Tradition GMT 7067, a 40mm platinum timepiece standing 12.1mm tall. It is powered by the manually wound caliber 507DRF and distinguished by a gradient green Grand Feu enamel dial—an effect that demands exceptional precision during firing.

Its dual-time display is thoughtfully arranged, with the home-time subdial positioned at 8 o’clock. Notably, this subdial is available with either Arabic or Eastern Arabic numerals—a customization that Abraham-Louis offered to his Ottoman clients.

A discreet day/night indicator at 10 o’clock is another tip of the hat to Abraham-Louis’s role in long-distance travel. The master watchmaker had been appointed by King Louis XVIII as the official watchmaker to the French Royal Navy, and happens to be the great-great-grandfather of prominent aeronautical engineers Louis Charles and Jacques Eugène Henri Breguet.

The Breguet Tradition GMT 7067 is completed with a black rubber strap accented by green stitching, lending a contemporary edge to a historically rooted design.