There is no denying that there is something special about grand feu enamel. This classic material gives a watch a unique lustre, and every watch connoisseur is familiar with the skills needed to create such a dial. In general, white is the color of choice when brands craft such a dial, but Breguet now shows us the luscious seduction when you opt for blue instead.
The hue of the blue is reminiscent of that of a blue dinner jacket, in the United States better known as the tuxedo. It was the Prince of Wales, who would later become King Edward VII, who ordered such a jacket in 1865, from his tailor Henry Poole on Savile Row. This was quite extraordinary as up until then black was the traditional color for such jackets. The benefit of the dark blue color for which the prince opted was that in low-light conditions it looked blacker than black. The same is the case with the new Classique 5177. Breguet selected a rather dark and distinguished hue of blue, which shows a lot of character.
For the overall character of the watch, we can not credit the Grand Feu enamel dial alone. Also, the way that Breguet marked the hour’s, as well as the hands, play an important part. They are very slender, crafted from rhodium plated steel and the second’s hand has an extended counterweight. This gives the watch a more dynamic look, but also make it seem larger then you would expect from its modest 38mm in diameter. The hours feature elegant Arabic numerals, while the minutes are marked by little stars instead of common dots. They are very subtle details, yet contribute greatly to the overall appeal of this Breguet.
The fact that the Breguet Classique 5177 has a date function will generate some discussion among purists. The way that Breguet has integrated this complication in the dial gives them quite a bit of credit though. Instead of an eyesore is it executed with care and precision, adding functionality, while not compromising the beauty of the dial too much. Here we also have to realize that not everybody who purchases a watch like this is a die-hard collector, as some just want a beautiful high-end piece to serve them in everyday life.
The case is particular slender, with its elegant rounded lugs and the fluted caseband. Because Breguet opted for white gold the whole watch is very understated, and this is also extended into the movement. No blued screws or anything like that, but a finely decorated caliber 777Q, which treats its owner on a balance-spring, in-line Swiss lever escapement, escape wheel and lever in silicon, as well as a 55-hour power reserve. A treat is also the gold oscillating weight which is hand engraved on a rose engine. They form the finishing touches on an impressive new addition to the Breguet line-up.