Hermes: 100 Years Of Horological History

Hermes: 100 Years Of Horological History

Seth Semilof
By Seth Semilof March 9, 2012

La Montre Hermès has presented its two first manufacture movements which, alongside the “Grandes Heures” and “Le temps suspendu” complications, stays with the divine craftsmanship and excellence commanded by a House with a watchmaking tradition that dates back to 1912. One calibre has given rise to two elite movements measuring time in both the feminine and masculine worlds of the Arceau and Dressage collections. These movements arise from the continuing collaboration between two Houses committed to quality, Hermès and Vaucher Manufacture.
Exclusive Hermès H1837 movement
The Dressage watch, created in 2003 by Henri d’Origny, now appears in a modernized version while remaining devoted to its original artistic form. In welcoming the exclusive 11 ½ ’’’ movement, the Dressage collection affirms its refined horological nature. This in-house movement, named after the founding date of the Maison Hermès, is available in versions with either a large central seconds hand and a date display at 6 o’clock, or with small seconds at 6 o’clock.
The dauphine hands are open worked, the applied hour-markers are sandblasted, the crown embraces close to the case. While the case remains the same size, the opening diameter is 1.5 mm wider to provide a wider view of the distinctly layered dial. The singular aesthetic of its bevelled tonneau-shaped silhouette is extended by lugs flowing effortlessly into the case and ensuring a faultless curve. “Bridled” by a leather strap or metal bracelet, the case was designed after Hermès’ equestrian roots. The new collection comprises ten different models.
Exclusive Hermès H1912 movement
The symbolic Arceau compilation has been enhanced with a fresh feminine variety housing the first 10 ½ ’’’ manufacture H1912 movement. Its name refers to the date of a photo with Jacqueline Hermès, who represents a fourth generation of the founding family and is shown wearing a “porte-oignon”, meaning an ingenious system serving to grasp a pocket watch in place on the wrist. Its case in a new 34 mm diameter reflects the signature codes of the Arceau line with its sloping numerals and asymmetrical stirrup-shaped strap attachments – a tribute to the equestrian world. Displaying an acute sense of detail, Hermès has fitted this watch with a crown set with a rose-cut diamond. It comes in six versions available in steel or rose gold, complemented by a choice of hand-sewn alligator straps.