Another year, another amazing crop of watches. With pieces from Greubel Forsey, Blancpain, Ulysse Nardin, Richard Mille and many more, Seth and I picked our favorites from amongst my Haute Time Watch of the Day feature…
Genghis Kahn Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts Minute Repeater
This minute repeater combines the most prestigious complications of mechanical watchmaking with brilliant diamonds and animated jaquemarts, making it truly unique. The bezel is set with 6.2 carats of white and black diamonds, while the black onyx dial is applied with warrior-motif jaquemarts that are activated when chiming the time. The watch is part of a limited edition of 30 pieces. The Genghis Kahn is powered by a Caliber UN-78 manual winding movement, housed in a 42mm 18K rose gold case.
The PanoLunar Flying Tourbillon is part of the brand’s Art & Technik collection, reinterpretations of watchmaking’s most important inventions. This is an enhanced flying tourbillon, with an escapement that features an oscillating system with eight regulating screws and 12 weighted gold screws to ensure greater precision. A standout element is the asymmetric design, with hour and minute dial positioned to the left of center.
El Primero Lightweight Skeletonized Limited Edition
The 45mm case is made of carbon fiber in a checkered pattern. The inner portion of the case is ceramized aluminum, a lightweight material that is very durable. The dial offers a partial view of the Caliber 4052 W El Primero striking 10th, an automatic chronograph movement that is also constructed from lightweight materials such as silicon and titanium. It is fitted with a sporty Nomex-lined rubber strap, and is part of a limited edition of 100 pieces.
Dream Watch 5
This futuristic-looking timepiece is an amazing machine that exhibits the creativity of De Bethune. Powered by a DB Caliber 2144 manual winding movement, the Dream Watch 5 features a small window on top of the timepiece that displays jumping hours and minutes on a rotating disc, along with a tiny moonphase indicator. The 42.9mm case is in platinum, and is equipped with a 5-day power reserve. An impressive 1-carat ruby cabochon on the crown is the finishing touch. The Dream Watch 5 is a made-to-order timepiece.
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscape
Released this year as part of the legendary Fifty Fathoms collection, the Bathyscaphe celebrates the collection’s 60th anniversary. It features a 43mm satin-brushed steel case, which houses the impressive Caliber 1315 self-winding movement with 120-hour power reserve. The meteor-grey dial features hours, minutes, seconds, and date between 5 and 6 o’clock. The luminous hands and markers on the dial, along with the one-way rotating bezel, make this a perfect companion for diving. The Bathyscaphe is water resistant to 300 meters and fitted with a black sail canvas strap with a pin-buckle.
Silverstone RS Skeleton
The RS Skeleton is so called because it features a porthole at 10 o’clock to showcase the escapement and balance wheel of the Caliber G1790 automatic movement. References to the auto-racing world include the black rubber tire tread strap with colored insert. The 46mm case is steel, with a black ceramic bezel that includes a tachymeter. Details on the dial and strap can be colored in a choice of red, blue or green. It is a limited collection of 250 pieces, in each of the colors.
MB&F and Urwerk
C3H5N309 Experiment ZR012 “Nitro” Black Limited Edition
The experiment ZR012 is the result of a collaboration between MB&F and Urwerk, with a movement and display modeled after a Wankel engine (an engine invented by German engineer Felix Wankel, which uses a rotary design to convert pressure into rotating motion). The case of the ZR012 is black zirconium. It is part of a limited collection of 12 special pieces.
Chrono Hawk Hollywoodland
The Hollywoodland celebrates Girard-Perregaux’s passion for the cinema and its role as exclusive timekeeper and founding supporter of the Academy of Motion Pictures’ new museum. It features a 44mm ceramic case with a pink gold bezel, as well as an anti-reflective crystal and caseback. It is powered by a Girard-Perregaux GP03300-0073 mechanical self-winding movement with a 46-hour power reserve. The dial features luminescent hands and markers, chronograph counters and the date at 6 o’clock.
Midnight Tourbillon GMT Limited Edition Geneva
This watch is an example of the beauty of 18K rose gold combined with a grey dial, increasingly used for limited editions. Limited to an edition of just five pieces, it commemorates the brand’s new salon in Geneva. The watch is also a tribute to the brand’s roots, incorporating Harry Winston’s signature arch motif as a nod to the brand’s New York City flagship. It is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement with a 110-hour power reserve. The leather strap has an 18K rose gold buckle.
Carl F. Bucherer
Manero Chrono Perpetual Limited Edition
This chronograph features the date, day of the week, month, and moon phase, taking into account even the differing lengths of the months and leap years. It will not require correction until the year 2100, when – as in all years divisible by 100, but not by 400 – one leap year will be skipped. The Manero Chrono Perpetual Limited Edition has a 42.5mm 18K rose gold case, and a silver or black dial. In addition to perpetual calendar and chronograph functions, there is a small seconds dial at 6 o’clock and a tachymeter scale on the bezel. The automatic Caliber CFB 1904 movement, which boasts a 50-hour power reserve, is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. It is completed by a brown hand-stitched Louisiana alligator leather strap with an 18K rose gold pin buckle. Only 100 pieces will be produced worldwide.
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
The standout feature of the new GMT-Master II is its bezel, which fuses black and blue seamlessly together in one ceramic Cerachron bezel for the first time. The black represents night, while the blue represents day. The 40mm case is steel and houses the self-winding Caliber 3186 movement, developed and manufactured by Rolex. The dial is black lacquer and shows the hours, along with minutes and seconds, 24-hour second time zone and date window at 3 o’clock.
RM 011 Carbon NTPT®
The case of this watch is made from a new material that represents a world premiere in watchmaking: NTPT, or North Thin Ply Technology, a type of carbon used for making racing sails and Formula 1 racecars. The case is constructed by layering carbon fibers, which produces an attractive wood-grain look that is unique to each watch and is extremely lightweight and durable. The RM 011 CArboN NTPT® features a richard mille automatic RMAC1 Caliber movement with a large date and month display, and a 55-hour power reserve.
Spirit of Big Bang
The Spirit of Big Bang features the six signature H-shaped titanium screws of the Big Bang but on a unique tonneau case. The skeletonized dial features hours and minutes, a central chronograph hand, a 30-minute subdial at 3 o’clock, hours at 6 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock, and a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock with visible disc. At the heart of the King Gold case is the HUB4700 movement, the result of a collaboration between Hublot and Zenith.
Deep Space Tourbillon
Winner of the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie for innovation, the Deep Space Tourbillon is among the modern “superwatches” that resemble space ships. The 46mm titanium case has a domed sapphire crystal, displaying a triple-axis tourbillon, with a tourbillon on the central axis rotating once every 40 seconds, while the tourbillon shaft spins on its axis every six minutes, and the entire mechanism spins in a horizontal movement every 30 minutes. The Caliber VH 113 has a 55-hour power reserve. It will be made in a limited edition of 100 pieces.
Arnold & Son
This latest addition to the Arnold & Son Instrument Collection is a tribute to the brand’s 250th anniversary. Housed in a 43.5mm 18K rose gold case, the DSTB features an off-centered white lacquer subdial with hours and minutes at 4 o’clock, as well as a seconds chronograph with visible mechanism at 11 o’clock on the dial plate, which is finished with Côtes de Genève rayonnantes. Only 50 pieces of this timepiece will be produced.
The first diving watch created by Graff diamonds is a serious piece of equipment. It is water resistant to 1000 feet, equipped with a decompression valve on the case side, and a 30-minute countdown indicator to track dive times and oxygen levels. The large 47mm case is DLC-coated with rose gold elements, including the numerals on the bezel. The brand’s signature element – diamonds – is used in two places: one is set into the crown and the other serves as the triangle-shaped 12 o’clock hour marker.
Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain
This stunning version of the Tourbillon 24 secondes Contemporain is set with 272 baguette diamonds. In addition to the diamonds set into the case, there are 80 baguettes set into the lugs, 54 baguettes on the buckle and 78 baguettes on the plate, totaling 9.71 carats. The watch is powered by the Caliber Gf01C mechanical hand-wound movement, with a patented tourbillon and a 72-hour power reserve. The 43.5mm case is in platinum. Functions include hour and minute display on the dial, small second display, power reserve and a 24-second rotation indicator.
Oktopus Moon Tattoo
The most recent addition to Linde werdelin’s dive watch series is 18K rose gold, with a black ceramic bezel and hand- engraved octopus on the case. Titanium is used to protect the movement and dial from water, as does the sealed DLC screw in the caseback. It features an in-house moonphase complication, represented by moonphases that are drawn and then printed on a pierced disc. As the monthly moon cycle changes, so does the dial, gradually illuminating more of the Moon’s surface. It is part of a limited series of 59 pieces.