Whether grand feu, champlevé, plique à jour, cloisonné or miniature painting, there is nothing like the unmistakable, porcelain-like sheen of an enameled dial. The product of multiple firings and painstaking hand work, the look of enamel is vintage, clean, luxurious and occasionally glamorous. The beauty of enamel is equally appealing in white on a traditional dial, or in more colorful, miniature compositions on a watch dial, often in floral or animal patterns. These five watchmakers, all of whom exhibited at the SIHH 2014 in January, are masters of the craft.
Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art Fabuleux Ornements, champlevé enameling in 10 colors, depicting oriental-inspired flowers blooming against a blue sky. With Caliber 1003SQ.
Van Cleef & Arpels Aquila, from the Midnight Constellations collection with a dial of champlevé and vallonné enamel, and set with onyx. The bezel is set with diamonds and it contains a self-winding mechanical movement.
Cartier les Indomptables Brooch Watch Crocodile, with a leather-like textured green enameled dial, serving as the backdrop for a crocodile – a removable brooch. It is quartz and limited to 50 pieces.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Quantième Lunaire, with a grand feu enamel dial and 18k white gold case. Contains manual wound Caliber 381, driving hours, minutes, seconds, jumping stop seconds with zero reset system, moonphase and power reserve.
Montblanc Villeret 1858 ExoTourbillon Rattrapante, with applied scales in grand feu enamel for the continually running seconds, hour, 24-hour display and chronograph elapsed minutes. Contains the Caliber MB M16.61.